Review of the trip following the Nile River in Egypt (Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel and Giza) and Sudan (Wadi Halfa, Abri, Sai Island, Wawa, Soleb, Dongola, Karima, Merowe, Nuri, El kurru, Atbara, Meroe, Descend , Musawarat, Naqa, Omdurman, Tuti Island and Khartoum).

 

EGYPT

 

Flight of the Egypt Air Company from Malpensa to Luxor (Egypt), with a stop after 4 hours at Cairo Airport (Egypt). Multi-leg ticket price with one way to Luxor and back from Khartoum, including taxes: USD 499.00.

 

Having checked in online and having only hand luggage, only at the Malpensa Gate, before boarding the plane I was asked to show my passport and plane ticket.

 

Keep in mind that if you come from Italy, to enter the transit area of ​​the National Flights of Cairo Airport (Egypt), you must go to the Immigration desk.

 

Time zone Egypt: + 1 hour compared to Italy (except in the months in which summer time is in effect).

 

Entry visa: mandatory, to be requested at the Consulates and the Embassy of Egypt or, only in the case of tourism, directly at the airports upon payment of 25 US dollars or equivalent amount in euros. Payment must be made at the Bank inside the Airport, located near the Immigration Desk. The visa is thus obtained to be presented at the aforementioned desk. After receiving the completed immigration card, the staff will paste it on your passport and stamp you on entry. Another opportunity is to obtain an E-visa, before leaving, by connecting to the website: https://egyptian-visa.com, and paying 25 USD, by credit card. In this way, you get the actual E-visa to be printed and presented to the immigration office of the airport, thus obtaining the entry stamp in the country.

In the case of entry into Egypt with an identity card, the visa will be affixed to a special coupon to be filled in upon arrival, upon delivery of two passport photos (which must be brought with you from Italy).

Tourists who spend their entire holiday in the South Sinai coast resort area for periods of less than 14 days do not need an ordinary tourist visa. If your stay exceeds 14 days or if you want to travel outside the resort area of ​​the southern Sinai coast, you must apply for an ordinary tourist visa.

Attention is drawn to the fact that the Egyptian authorities do not allow exceptions, and those who do not hold an ordinary tourist visa will in no way be able to access other areas of the country, even in case of need. In certain circumstances, this could limit the possibilities of assistance to fellow countrymen.

 

At the Cairo International Airport, once I passed the Egyptian Immigration, to reach the Gate to Luxor I had to undergo a double security check.

 

Languages ​​spoken in Egypt: Arabic. The most common vehicular language is English, followed by French. Italian is widely spoken in the Sharm-el-Sheikh area.

 

Religion in Egypt: Sunni Islamic (public holiday Friday) with a Coptic Christian minority of 10 to 15%.

 

Egyptian currency: Egyptian pound.

 

Once I arrived, at Luxor Airport, located about 7 km east of the center of Luxor, I did not have to undergo any immigration checks since I had already completed the Cairo Airport.

 

At Luxor Airport, as it was almost midnight, I couldn't find any money exchange offices open.

 

From Luxor Airport, located approximately 7 km east of Luxor city center, I took a taxi for 6 Euros (I paid in Euros and was given change in EGP) to reach the Oasis Hotel, located in Mohamed Farid Street, East bank, in the center of Luxor, about 300 meters. from the railway station.

 

In Luxor, I slept at the Oasis Hotel (booked through booking.com), located in Mohamed Farid Street, East bank (E_mail: luxoroasis@hotmail.com, Tel: +2 01004961848/01003805882, WhatsApp / +2 01004961848), at price of 100 EGP per night, for a double room, with fan, shared bathroom, WIFI not working. The reception staff speaks some English.

 

The Oasis Hotel rented me a bicycle in bad condition at the price of 50 EGP per day

 

Exchanging money in Luxor was not easy for me as I arrived on Friday night, and therefore both Friday and Saturday Banks are closed in Egypt. So on Friday night I tried to change money at the hotel and in the nearby shops but with little success. On Saturday morning I tried to withdraw money from the ATM inside the Luxor Railway Station, but with little success as there was no more money. Finally I found a money changer, located near McDonald's, in Mabad Al Karnak corner with Madraset Al Banat, at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 17.8891 EGP, 1 USD = 16.3700 EGP

 

In all the attractions of Luxor, both in the east and in the west, if you prove to be a student, you pay half the entrance fee and I also have to undergo a security check before entering, such as those that are carried out in Airport.

 

By bicycle I went to the Karnak Temple, located 3 km north - east of the center of Luxor. It opens at 6.00 in the morning and the best time to visit it is precisely at that time. The cost of the entrance ticket is 150 EGP.

Next, I went to the West Bank ferry dock. There is a public ferry that shuttles between the east and west banks of Luxor, but I couldn't find it, also because everyone pushed me to take a private ferry and so I did, paying 40 EGP, for the ride. one way. I also took the bike with me.

From the town of El Gezira I cycled for about 3 km before reaching the gigantic Colossi of Memnon.

 

Then I continued by bicycle for less than 1 km, up to the main intersection, near the beautiful village of Gurna. Here is a Ticket office where you have to buy entrance tickets for most of the attractions for the west bank, which I am going to list below:

1. Habu Temple III, 80 EGP;

2. Ramessus Temple III, 80 EGP;

3. Nakht and Menna Amenemopet, 60 EGP;

4. Rekhmire and Sennofer, 40 EGP;

5. Ramose, Userhet, and Khaemhet, 60 EGP;

6. Dir Ek Madina Temple and Tombs, 100 EGP;

7. Khokha (Nefer - Ronpet, Nefer - Sekheru, Dhutmosi), 40 EGP;

8. Seti Temple, 40 EGP;

9. Khonsu, Userhet, Benia, 40 EGP;

10. Roy and Shroy Tombs, 40 EGP;

11. Pashedo Tomb, 40 EGP;

12. Merenptah Temple, 40 EGP;

13. Cartar's House, 80 EGP;

14. Isis Temple, 40 EGP;

15. Qurnet Murei, 40 EGP;

I continued to the right on my bicycle, pedaling for scarce 7 km, slightly uphill until I reached the Valley of the Kings.

So when I arrived at the ticket office, I bought a ticket at the price of 200 EGP for the Valley of the Kings, which allows you to visit 3 Tombs of those open at the moment, but not that of Tutankhamun. I chose these 3: Tomb of Tausert Setnakht, Tomb of Rameses III, Tomb of Rameses IV, suggested by the Egyptian staff. Also here I bought the ticket for Tutankhamun's tomb, at a cost of 250 EGP.

From here I took the electric train that for the price of 4 EGP, round trip, took me to the real entrance of the Valley of the Kings, overcoming 500 meters. abundant of asphalt on a slight slope that separate it from the ticket office. You can also walk and return by train for free.

Before entering the Valley of the Kings you must leave the camera and the camera at the dedicated desk, as it is forbidden to take them with you.

Instead, it is allowed to take photos without flash and videos with the smartphone, inside all the tombs.

After visiting the Valley of the Kings, I covered 4 km slightly downhill until I reached the little visited temple of Seti I, located in Qurna. The entrance ticket which costs 60 EGP must be purchased at the ticket office, located at the main intersection, near the beautiful village of Gurna.

From here, still by bicycle, I went to the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut. The entrance ticket, which costs 100 EGP, must be purchased at the ticket office located 500 meters away. scarce before the actual Temple.

From here you can take the electric train which for the price of 4 EGP, round trip, takes you to the actual temple, overcoming 500 meters. scarce of asphalt on a slight slope that separate it from the ticket office. You can also walk and return by train for free.

 

From here, always by bicycle, I went to the Mortuary Temple of Ramsesse III, located in the village of Medinet Habu. The entrance ticket which costs 80 EGP must be purchased at the ticket office, located at the main intersection, near the beautiful village of Gurna, about 500 meters away. north - east of the aforementioned Temple.

Then I traveled, by bicycle, the road for about 1.5 km, slightly uphill towards the north - west, to reach the Valley of the Queens. Keep in mind that the entrance ticket must be purchased at the entrance to the Valley of the Queens, bearing in mind that the Ticket office closes at 16.00, while the actual site at 17.00. I paid 100 EGP for the ticket and it allowed me to visit three tombs accompanied by a guide. Here you can take photos and videos with both your smartphone and camera.

Remember that in almost all the Tombs and in almost all the aforementioned Temples the custodians will try to show you something more than what tourists are allowed, in exchange for a small tip.

 

Once back in El Gezira, I easily found the public ferry to the eastern shore of Luxor, paying 5 EGP for it. I was able to take my bicycle with me without any problems.

The Luxor Temple, is located right in the center of the city. The best time to visit it is at sunset, when it is illuminated with artificial light. The ticket office is located on the north - east side of the same, but the Temple in Topic can also be seen very well from outside the fence.

To reach Aswan from Luxor, the best solution is to take the train.

There are several departures per day. I took the last train at 7.15 pm. The ride lasts approximately 3 and a half hours. I bought the first class ticket the same morning at the price of 90 EGP. Second class was sold out. If you want, you can also buy the ticket on the train and stay (paying a small supplement) and stand (if there is no room) as the locals often do.

At the Aswan Railway Station, at 11.00 pm, David, the owner of the David Hostel, picked me up for free.

 

In Aswan, I slept at the David Hostel (booked via booking.com), located on Unnamed Road, in the southern suburbs, (Tel: +20 128 360 0001, priced at 85 EGP per night, for a dorm bed, with fan , shared bathroom, WIFI, shared kitchen, free tea, free pick up from the train station David, the owner speaks excellent English.

 

David rented me a mountainbike for 50 EGP.

In the morning at 6.00 on a mountain bike I traveled 4 km and went to the Port of Shellal Village, located near the Aswan Dam.

Here, starting from 7.00 in the morning, you can buy the entrance ticket to the Temple of Isis on the Island of File at the price of 140 EGP and also hire a boat to reach the island at the price of 200 EGP round trip. Keep in mind that if you are alone you will have to pay the full ticket, because you cannot share the boat with any group.

 

Once I visited the Temple of Isis, I returned to dry land and traveled an abundant 5 km by bicycle to reach the tourist site of the unfinished obelisk. The price of the entrance ticket costs 80 EGP.

 

From there I traveled 3 km by bicycle, until I reached the ferry dock, located near the railway station square.

 

From there there is a public ferry which shuttles all day between Aswan and the Nubian Village of Gharb Aswan. I was allowed to take my bike on the ferry. I paid 5 EGP for the one-way ticket, although in reality the Clubs pay 2 EGP.

 

Once I arrived in Gharb Aswan, I rented a Camel at a cost of EGP 100 round trip, plus a tip of 15 EGP, to cross the Desert and reach the Monastery of San Simeone (45 '). Entry price: 60 EGP.

 

Once back in Gharb Aswan, I went to the Ticket office, to buy a ticket to visit the Tombs of the Nobles at the price of 60 EGP, which allowed me to visit the following Tombs accompanied by a Guide:

 

1. Tomb of Sarenput II;

2. Tombs of Mekhu and Sabni;

3. Tomb of Harkhuf;

4. Tomb of Sarenput I;

 

Once I returned to Aswan by ferry, I went to one of the money changers located on Kornish Al Nile Road and exchanged currency at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 18.35 EGP.

 

Then I reached the ferry dock for the Nubian Village of Koti, on Elephantine Island, located just north of Feryal Garden Park. I was allowed to take my bike on the ferry. I paid 5 EGP for the one-way ticket, although in reality the Clubs pay 2 EGP.

 

In the Nubian Village of Koti, on Elephantine Island, I visited the Abu Archaeological Site and the Aswan Museum. Entrance ticket price: 70 EGP, although I was allowed to pay half as a student in exchange for a 20 EGP tip.

 

Then by bicycle I went to the Animalia Museum located in the Nubian Village of Siou, on Elephantine Island. Ticket price: 10 EGP

 

Then, always by bicycle, I visited both the Koti Village and the Siou Village on Elephantine Island.

 

Once back in Aswan, I went to Feryal Garden Park for 10 EGP which is the best place to see the beautiful sunset over the River Nile.

 

Afterwards, I entered the nearby Coptic Cathedral, where I attended a wedding. To enter it, the military checks your backpack and asks you to show your passport.

 

To reach Wadi Halfa in Sudan from Egypt, there are 2 alternatives: take a daily bus from Aswan (cost 300 EGP), or the ferry (cost 350 EGP) departing only once a week and precisely on Sunday between 13.30 and 5pm, which takes about 18 hours to reach Wadi Halfa.

Keep in mind that although it seems illogical, there are no buses or ferries departing for Wadi Halfa from Abu Simbel, even if this is the last city before the border with Sudan.

 

Having arrived in Aswan on Saturday evening, on Sunday morning I went to the office of the ferry company for Wadi Halfa, located 150 meters away. about from the train station, in a side street of Saad Zaghloul, but I found it closed. To get the ticket I would have had to go to the Port of Aswan, near the Dam, 15 km south of the center and hope to find a ticket, but in the end I gave up and preferred to buy a bus ticket in the nearby Office, at a cost of 300 EGP.

 

So I had David, the owner of the David Hostel, take me for a price of 40 EGP over (25 EGP tip), at 3.00 at night to the office of the Bus Company, located 150 meters away. about from the train station, in a side street of Saad Zaghloul. There a Guy changed my money at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 75 SDG, 1 $ = 50 SDG Please note that the official exchange rate at the time of my trip was as follows: 1 Euro = 49.8441 SDG, 1 USD = 45.0856 SDGs

 

Then around 4.00 am I was taken by minibus to the Aswan Bus Station, located in the northern suburbs of Aswan. Here I waited another good hour before leaving for Sudan.

 

After 3 hours the bus arrives in Abu Simbel. Here the bus first takes a break of about half an hour at a restaurant and then goes to the port to get on the ferry to cross Lake Nasser. All this wait lasts about 1 hour which if you have a lot of courage you can take advantage of to go and visit the famous Temples of Ramesses II and Hathor and Nefertari very quickly at the entrance price of 260 EGP.

To reach the aforementioned Temples I took an APE at the price of 50 EGP, round trip, including the waiting time for visiting them.

 

The ferry crossing of Lake Nasser takes approximately 1 hour. Then by bus you have to travel about another 25 km before reaching the Egyptian border in the Qustul area. Here you have to pay 115 EGP, as a tax to leave the country. Subsequently, you must fill out the form for leaving the country and deliver it together with the passport to the Immigration Desk. In this way, the exit stamp from the country is obtained. Then it is necessary to wait over 1 hour for all the other travelers who are on the bus with you so that they too carry out all customs formalities.

 

Once the Egyptian customs formalities have been completed, get back on the bus and thus reach the Sudan border.

SUDAN

 

Time zone Egypt: the same time when summer time is in force in Italy; + 1h compared to Italy during solar time.

 

Tourist entry visa: required, to be requested at the Embassy of Sudan in Rome, following the following procedure:

 Complete and fax the visa application form.

 Attach a passport valid for at least (6) months.

 Attach two passport photos.

• Rates: € 70.00 Italian passport. They can be paid in cash by bank transfer.

• The presentation of the visa takes place through the Sudanese tourist companies and its issue takes place through the Ministry of the Interior of Sudan - Section "Borders and Foreign Citizens".

• The Visa can also be presented through Italian tourist agencies such as: I Viaggi di Maurizio Levi etc ...

 The expected time for issuing the visa is two to four weeks.

 

As can be seen from the documentation listed above, obtaining a tourist visa for Sudan in Europe is extremely difficult.

Therefore I decided to get the Sudan visa in Africa, which is much faster and easier.

Then I went to the Sudan Embassy in Bangui in the Central African Republic, because here is one of the easiest places in the world to get a tourist visa. And in fact I showed up at 9.30 in the morning and presented 1 completed and signed form, 2 passport photos, a photocopy of the Passport, a photocopy of the hotel reservation made through "Expedia" and 150,000 CFA in cash (the correct price was 60,000 CFA, but the smart clerk took 150,000 CFA saying mine was a 3 month visa, but it wasn't true). I waited at the Embassy and at 13.00 I collected my passport with the tourist visa, valid for 2 months from the date of issue with the possibility of staying in Sudan for 1 month. The problem that got me wrong is when it expired before I entered the country and then I had to go back to the Embassy and they extended my visa for 20 days, until just past the expiration date of my trip.

 

Keep in mind that another place where it is easy to get a visa easily is Aswan in Egypt, where you can get it in 2 or 3 days by submitting the completed form, 2 passport photos and $ 150 in cash.

 

Languages: Arabic (official language) and English (vehicular language).

 

Religion: Sunni Muslim, with Christian and animist minorities.

 

Sudan currency: Sudanese pound (SDG).

 

This leads to the immigration office of Sudan, where by presenting my passport with the visa and the completed form for entry to the country, in a few minutes I get the entry stamp.

Keep in mind that the foreigner (holder of an ordinary passport) is required to declare his presence to the competent authority (Alien Registration Office) within three days of his entry into the country in the following cities: Khartoum, Porto Sudan, Dongola, Wadi Halfa and the land border post of Qustul between Egypt and Sudan, by presenting a photocopy of the passport, that of the visa with the entry stamp, a specific form completed and 550 SDGs in cash. I registered in about 1 hour, here at the Qustul land border post between Egypt and Sudan. The aforementioned photocopies were made for me free of charge by the border personnel who were extremely kind to me.

Please note that the aforementioned registration occupies one page of the Passport.

 

Once I got the entry stamp in the country and the one for the visa registration, I had to undergo the control of my backpack, obtaining a badge that allowed me to exit customs and reach my bus.

There I had to wait another abundant hour before all my traveling companions were minitively checked by the Customs staff, all the gigantic luggage and goods.

 

Before getting on the bus you can change money on the black market at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 72 SDG, 1 $ = 66 SDG Please note that the official exchange rate at the time of my trip was as follows: 1 Euro = 49, 8441 SDG, 1 USD = 45.0856 SDG

 

From the Qustul border post, the Bus proceeds on a perfectly asphalted road in the middle of the desert, heading south for about 25 km, until it reaches the City of Wadi Halfa at 5.00 pm.

Keep in mind that all the paved roads I traveled in Sudan on my trip were in excellent condition.

 

Keep in mind that throughout my journey I met very few checkpoints, but no one ever checked my passport.

 

In Wadi Halfa I looked for a Hotel. There are a lot of them, but hardly identifiable as the writings are only in Arabic. I passed 20 but they were all full. In the end, 2 guys who made the journey with me by bus helped me to find a very basic hotel, with sand floor, without sheets, with shared bathroom and without fan and without air conditioning. I don't know the price because my traveling companions paid for it, as did the dinner.

From the Wadi Halfa Bus Station, I took the minibus to Dongola for the price of 200 SDG, departing at 5.45 am, to reach the town of Abri. I booked a seat the night before, registering on the appropriate register, but without paying.

The journey took almost 3 hours.

 

The aforementioned minibus left me in the eastern suburbs of Abri, on the A1 road, near a petrol station.

From there I took a taxi for the price of 100 SDG, to reach 5km further south, the boat dock for Sai Island.

 

To reach the ruins of the Ottoman Fort and the Medieval Church, located on Sai Island, you can take a boat for the price of 80 SDG (round trip), to cross the River Nile and then walk for about 1 km southwards. to reach the aforementioned archaeological site, or go to the ruins in question directly by boat, at the price of 300 SDG (round trip), along the Nile River against the current for over 1 km.

 

Admission to the Sai Island archaeological site is free as there is no fence and no guardian.

 

Once back on dry land, I asked for a free ride to reach the petrol station, located on the eastern outskirts of Abri, on the A1 road.

 

 From there, minibuses run regularly from sunrise to sunset to Dongola that stop on request wherever you want, but the locals convinced me that there would be no minibus until the next day and so they convinced me to take a private vehicle. to reach Wawa, located 50 km further south, for the price of 300 SDGs.

 

In Wawa I was dropped off near a shop on the main road. There I had to wait about 3 hours to find a person who would take me on foot, walking for over 1 km, to the edges of the Nile River, then cross it with a small motor boat and finally walk another 1 km until I reached the Soleb Temple (Free admission). Total price of the round trip operation: 200 SDGs.

 

Once back on the A1 road in Wawa, I waited about 1 hour before finding a minibus, coming from Wadi Halfa and headed to Dongola. Fare: 200 SDGs. Duration: 2 hours 30 '.

 

The aforementioned minibus ends its journey at the Dongola Bus Station, located in the city center.

In Dongola, I slept at the Almuallem Hotel, located 600 mt. west of the Bus Station, for the price of 500 SDG per night, for a double room, with fan, air conditioning, shared bathroom. The reception staff only speak Arabic, but you can find someone who speaks English nearby.

 

From the Dongola Bus Station, I took the Minibus to Karima, for the price of 150 SDG. I booked a seat the night before, registering on the appropriate register, but without paying. I was asked to show up at 7.00 in the morning, although in truth the departure took place around 8.30 (the time necessary for the minibus to fill up).

The journey lasted about 2h 30 '.

 

The aforementioned minibus left me in the center of Karima, not far from the train station.

From there I took a tuc tuc for the price of 50 SDG, to reach 3 km further south - west, the Karima Museum, near Jebel Barkal.

 

The visit to the small Karima Museum cost 50 SDGs.

 

Then on foot I walked for a few hundred meters in the middle of the desert until I reached the foot of the Sacred Mountain of Jebel Barkal and the nearby beautiful Pyramids.

 

While I was visiting the Pyramids, the site clerk reached me and asked me $ 15 or $ 200 SDG to visit the Temple of Mut, located inside the mountain, where you can only take photos without flash and not Amun Temple, located at the foot of Jebel Barkal.

 

From there I walked for less than 1 km to reach the main road where minibuses (10 SDGs) and shared taxis (20 SDGs) pass between Karima and Merowe and vice versa.

 

In Merowe, the buses coming from Karima end the ride at the Bus Station.

 

From the Merowe Bus Station, minibuses for Nuri leave from sunrise to sunset, when they are full (a few minutes waiting). Cost of the ride: 10 SDGs. Duration: 15 minutes.

 

The aforementioned minibus ends its journey near the roundabout in Nuri. From there, to reach the Pyramids it is necessary to walk for almost 1 km north - east in the desert.

 

Usually the pyramids of Nuri are guarded by guardians who ask you for a small tip for the visit, but in my case there was no one and so I didn't pay anything.

 

After visiting the Pyramids of Nuri, I took the minibus from the roundabout to the Merowe Bus Station. Cost of the ride: 10 SDGs. Duration: 15 minutes.

 

From there I took the minibus to Karima. Cost of the ride: 10 SDGs. Duration: 15 minutes. I got off near the intersection on the main road near the Karima Pyramids.

 

From the intersection in front of the Karima pyramids, minibuses and collective taxis heading west pass from dawn to dusk, which also stop on request on the main road in El Kurru (there is a road sign). From there you have to walk about 1 km south to reach the Tombs and the only Pyramid left standing. If the caretaker is nearby you will be lucky enough to visit the most important tomb otherwise you will have to be content with seeing the site from the outside.

 

I took a collective taxi that forgot to leave me in El Kurru, continuing further bringing other people to their destination in the nearby villages and then took me directly to the archaeological site of El Kurru demanding 200 SDGs from me.

 

From the El Kurru archaeological site, I walked about 1km, until I reached the main road. From there I waited almost 1 hour before a collective taxi stopped which, for the price of 40 SDG, took me to the center of Karima.

 

From the center of Karima I took a tuc tuc for the price of 20 SDG, to reach 3 km further south - west, the Ahmed Mousa Homestay, located a few hundred meters east of the Karima Museum, near Jebel Barkal.

 

In Karima, I slept at Ahmed Mousa Homestay, located a few hundred meters east of the Karima Museum, near Jebel Barkal (Tel: 0912585462), for the price of 200 SDG per night, for a room with 4 beds all for me, with fan, shared bathroom. The staff speaks some English.

 

From the center of Karima, in front of the Oil Energy petrol station, not far from the railway station, I took the Inland Trasportation Company Minibus, bound for Atbara, for the price of 300 SDGs. I was asked to show up at 7.00 in the morning, and actually the departure took place around 7.00 (the minibus filled up quickly). There are departures until the early afternoon.

The journey took almost 3 hours.

 

The aforementioned minibus ends its journey at the Atbara Bus Station, located in the south-eastern suburbs.

 

From the Atbara Bus Station, I took a direct bus to Shendi (Desk number 4) at the price of 100 SDG, departing approximately every hour, to reach the Archaeological site of Meroe. I asked the driver to stop on the main road in front of the aforementioned archaeological site. From there I had to walk for almost 1 km before arriving at the site entrance.

 

Officially, admission to the Pyramids of Meroe costs $ 20, although with a little negotiation I managed to pay 200 SDGs.

 

The Pyramids of Meroe, located on the Dunes of the Desert are stunning.

 

Once back on the main road, a truck driver gave me a lift for about 3 km, to the service area located in Kabushiya.

 

From there I got on one of the many buses coming from Atbara and headed to Khartoum or Shendi.

Fare for Shendi: 50 SDGs. Duration: 1 h

 

The aforementioned bus left me on the main road, in the south-eastern outskirts of Shendi, about 4 km from the center which I reached by collective taxi for the price of 20 SDGs.

 

In Shendi, I slept in a Local Guest House, located 100 meters away. from the central green mosque, a few tens of meters from a police station, at the price of 350 SDG per night, for a double room, with fan, television, air conditioning, refrigerator, private bathroom. The staff at the Guesthouse speak very little English.

 

For those who want to stay in a slightly more luxurious hotel, about 1 km from the center, towards the Nile River, there is Elkawther Hotel which costs 2,000 SDGs per night.

 

In Shendi, through the Local Guest House where I stayed, with great difficulty I managed to rent an off-road vehicle with driver and guide who speaks English for the price of 4,000 SDG, to visit the Temples of Naqa and Musawarat. Apart from the first 30 km of asphalt on the road to Khartoum, then the roads to reach the aforementioned sites are unpaved and free of signs. Even the driver and the guide who spoke English had a hard time finding them.

 

For the Meroitic Temple and Lion Temple in Musawarat the caretaker asked me to pay $ 20 or 952 SDGs. Eventually after a long negotiation I managed to convince him to let me in for free, giving him 150 SDGs as a tip.

 

For the Amun Temple and the Leon Temple in Naqa, in theory the cost of admission was to be $ 25, but being Friday, a day of prayer, there was no guardian on the post office and therefore I did not pay anything.

 

On the way back I was dropped off near a checkpoint on the Shendi - Khartoum road.

 

Here I took one of the many minibuses headed to Khartoum, for the price of 100 SDGs.

 

The aforementioned bus ends its journey in the northern outskirts of Bahri, approximately 10 km north of the center of Khartoum.

 

From there I took a minibus for the price of 5 SDG, which took me near the Bahri Souq.

 

From there I took a minibus for 10 SDGs, which took me to the center of Khartoum on the edge of the Al Souq Al Arabi neighborhood

 

Keep in mind that Khartoum is full of uniformed and plainclothes policemen who don't like you taking pictures on the street. Therefore, apart from inside the Museums, it is necessary to be very discreet when taking photographs in order not to run into major problems. Also remember that it is forbidden to take photographs on the White Nile bridge which is considered a strategic point. If you get caught, you could end up in jail.

 

In the streets around Al Kabir Mosque, in the neighborhood of Al Souq Al Arabi, there are a flood of black money changers, which change money at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 80 SDG, 1 $ = 72 SDG

In Khartoum, I struggled to find a cheap hotel.

In the end I took a taxi which, for the price of 100 SDGs, took me to Hotel KH2, located in Khartoum 2, two kilometers south-east of Al Souq Al Arabi and 1 km west of the International Airport.

Keep in mind that in Khartoum, Tuc Tuc also circulate, but that they cannot circulate in the center of the capital.

In Khartoum, I slept at Hotel KH2, located in Khartoum 2, two km south-east of Al Souq Al Arabi and 1 km west of the International Airport, for the price of 600 SDG per night, for a double room. with fan, air conditioning, private bathroom, WIFI working only in the reception area. Reception staff speak English. The aforementioned hotel allows you to keep your suitcases in the cloakroom for one day after you have checked out.

From the KH2 Hotel, located in Khartoum 2, I took a Tuc Tuc, priced at 40 SDGs, to go to the Jackson Bus Station, located just south of the Al Souq Al Arabi neighborhood and 600 meters. approximately west of the railway station.

 

From sunrise to after sunset, they depart from Jackson Bus Station, located just south of the Al Souq Al Arabi neighborhood and 600 meters. approximately west of the train station, when full (usually they fill up in a few minutes), minibuses bound for Omdurman, a city just northwest of the capital of Sudan. Fare: 5 SDGs.

 

If you are headed to Hamed el Nil Tomb in Omdurman, tell the driver, who will drop you off at Altoromba Hamadalneil Street. From there it will be necessary to walk for about 300 meters, crossing the whole Cemetery before reaching the Mausoleum.

 

Every Friday (except during the Ramadam period), from 4.30 pm and until Sunset, near the Mausoleum of Hamed el Nil, in Omdurman there is a spectacular religious ceremony led by the group of Sufists. Admission is free. It is a particularly interesting and suggestive religious function. The Sufists present themselves as an ancient form of brotherhood whose origin is lost in time. They are often considered a Muslim sect. In truth they are not precisely a sect, as they do not define themselves on the basis of particular principles of religious affiliation, nor do they give life in themselves to particular forms of worship or to specific forms of monastic coexistence. Above all, they are united by a method of spiritual research based precisely on the rejection of any alleged dogmatism and on the attempt to seek the truth hidden in every religion.

Precisely for this reason it is also an understatement to define them as Muslims because despite living in a cultural area marked by Islam they have always in fact, even in a conflictual way with Islam, claimed their own particular path in the search for Truth.

Those who have the opportunity to participate from before the actual ceremony begins will immediately realize that for the Sudanese it represents a real moment of encounter and social life. The religious function is guided by the followers of Sufism, through the use of litanies and dances. All those present, arranged in a circle (the women must be in the second row), are involved in a crescendo of religious singing to facilitate prayer to God. In the eyes of tourists, a very suggestive atmosphere results.

 

Surely the ceremony of the dervishis is an excellent example of how the idea of ​​community prayer can encompass multiple meanings, changing from place to place, from religion to religion. It also makes us reflect the fact that the function takes place inside a cemetery, just think of what cemeteries are and represent in our culture, the places of silence par excellence.

 

To return to Khartoum from Omdurman, you have to go to Altoromba Hamadalneil Street and take one of the many minibuses heading to the capital which usually ends not far from Jackson Bus Station. Fare: 10 SDGs.

 

Near Jackson Bus Station, Tuc Tuc cannot circulate and so I took a taxi, for the price of 100 SDG, to reach the Hotel KH2, located in Khartoum 2.

 

The following morning I went on foot, covering almost 2 km, to the Consulate of South Sudan in Khartoum, located in Al Sharif al Hindi Street, not far from the British Embassy, ​​to apply for a tourist visa, as it was closed on Saturday. It is open from Monday to Friday.

 

From there I took a taxi for the price of 120 SDG, to reach the Jackson Bus Station, located just south of the Al Souq Al Arabi neighborhood and 600 meters. approximately west of the railway station.

 

From sunrise to after sunset, they depart from Jackson Bus Station, located just south of the Al Souq Al Arabi neighborhood and 600 meters. approximately west of the train station, when full (usually they fill up in a few minutes), minibuses headed to Souq Lybia in Omdurman, a city just northwest of the Sudan capital. Fare: 10 SDGs.

 From Souq Lybia, I took a tuc tuc at the price of 80 SDG, to reach the Camel Market, which is held every Saturday from 7.00 to 14.00. Here you can see a lot of Camels all together. Admission is free.

 

Near the Omdurman Camel Market, I took a minibus for the price of 5 SDG, to reach Lybia Souq.

 

From there I took one of the many minibuses headed to the capital which usually ends not far from Jackson Bus Station. Fare: 5 SDGs.

 

However, I got off shortly before, on Army road near Bayan College for Science and Technology and on foot I first reached the Botanical Gardens, which are closed to the public and then the National Museum which has the entrance on Nile Street.

 

The National Museum of Khartoum is very large and very complete. It is open every day from 8.00 to 17.30, except Monday and Friday which is open from 8.00 to 11.30 and from 14.00 to 17.30. The entrance fee is 10 SDGs.

 

From there I walked on Nile Street for about 500m. heading east, to reach the symbol of Khartoum, the characteristic Hotel Corinthia. I asked the caretaker to let me into the courtyard to take some pictures and he agreed without asking for any compensation.

 Then from the intersection of Gamma Ave and 52nd Street, adjacent to the Corinthia Hotel, I took a minibus to Tuti Island for the price of 5 SDGs.

 

Tuti Island, even if it is one step away from the capital, appears very quiet and it is very pleasant to walk in its narrow alleys and observe the Blue Nile River from its banks.

 

From Tuti Island I took a minibus which, at 5 SDGs, took me to the center of Khartoum.

 

From there I took a taxi which, for the price of 100 SDGs, took me to the Ethnographic Museum, located near the intersection of Al Jamia Street and Al Mek Nimir Street. Unfortunately I found it closed.

 

From the Khartoum Ethnographic Museum, I walked west on Nile Street, passing the Presidential Palace and various ministries. This stretch of road is chock full of army armored vehicles with machine guns leveled and if you don't want to get into trouble, don't even think about taking your camera out of your pocket.

 

When I arrived at Al Kabir Mosque, the most important in the capital, I asked a boy if I could enter and he said yes and also allowed me to take some photographs.

 

From the Al Kabir Mosque, I took a taxi, priced at 100 SDGs, to reach the Hotel KH2, located in Khartoum 2, where I recovered my backpack that I had left in the cloakroom.

 

From Hotel KH2, located in Khartoum 2, I took a Tuc Tuc, for the price of 50 SDG, to go to the International Airport, located just 1 km east of the aforementioned Hotel.

Before entering the Airport Hall, you must undergo a security check, then you must check in, then you must go to the desk where you get the exit stamp from the country, then there is the security check with the scanner and then you have to undergo another 2 hand baggage checks carried out on sight.

 

Egypt Air Company flight from Khartoum to Cairo (Egypt). Multi-leg ticket price with one way to Luxor and back from Khartoum, including taxes: USD 499.00.

 

 

EGYPT

Time zone Egypt: + 1 hour compared to Italy (except in the months in which summer time is in effect).

 

Entry visa: mandatory, to be requested at the Consulates and the Embassy of Egypt or, only in the case of tourism, directly at the airports upon payment of 25 US dollars or equivalent amount in euros. Payment must be made at the Bank inside the Airport, located near the Immigration Desk. The visa is thus obtained to be presented at the aforementioned desk. The staff will paste it onto your passport and stamp your entry. Another opportunity is to obtain an E-visa, before leaving, by connecting to the website: https://egyptian-visa.com, and paying 25 USD, by credit card. In this way, you get the actual E-visa to be printed and presented to the immigration office of the airport, thus obtaining the entry stamp in the country.

In the case of entry into Egypt with an identity card, the visa will be affixed to a special coupon to be filled in upon arrival, upon delivery of two passport photos (which must be brought with you from Italy).

Tourists who spend their entire holiday in the South Sinai coast resort area for periods of less than 14 days do not need an ordinary tourist visa. If your stay exceeds 14 days or if you want to travel outside the resort area of ​​the southern Sinai coast, you must apply for an ordinary tourist visa.

Attention is drawn to the fact that the Egyptian authorities do not allow exceptions, and those who do not hold an ordinary tourist visa will in no way be able to access other areas of the country, even in case of need. In certain circumstances, this could limit the possibilities of assistance to fellow countrymen.

 

At the Cairo International Airport, once I passed the Egyptian Immigration, to reach the Gate to Luxor I had to undergo a double security check.

 

Languages ​​spoken in Egypt: Arabic. The most common vehicular language is English, followed by French. Italian is widely spoken in the Sharm-el-Sheikh area.

 

Religion in Egypt: Sunni Islamic (public holiday Friday) with a Coptic Christian minority of 10 to 15%.

 

Egyptian currency: Egyptian pound.

 

From Cairo International Airport, there are several buses, which go to the center of the capital, but with little time and having to go to Giza which remains on the other side of the city, almost 20 km southwest of the airport, I took a taxi at the price of 150 EGP, to reach the nearest Metro Station, which is Al Ahram (10 minutes by taxi).

 

From there I took the metro to Giza (with a train change in Ataba), for the price of 10 EGP. Journey time: about 45 minutes. Please note that there are carriages dedicated only to women on the Cairo Metro.

 

On the main road, Al Haram Street, just outside the Giza Metro, pass numerous buses and minibuses (4 EGPs) heading south - west, towards the Giza plateau.

 

From the Giza Metro to the Giza Plain, there are only 8 km, but at rush hour the bus travel time can be close to an hour.

 

I got off at the intersection of Al Haram Street and Al Mansoureya Road and walked for about 1 km before reaching the Ticket office of the Pyramids of Giza.

 

The cost of admission to the Giza Plateau is 160 EGP. To enter the Pyramid of Cheops is 360 EGP, for the pyramid of Chefren 100 EGP, while that of Menkaure was closed.

 

The aforementioned archaeological site opens every day at 8.00 in the morning.

 

The Giza Plain is full of cheaters who try to steal money from you in every way: who tells you that the entrance is somewhere else, who tries to sell you fake tickets, who proposes himself as a guide without having a title, ect .

 

The exit from the Archaeological Park is near the Sphinx.

 

From there, as I was in a hurry, I took a taxi for the price of 80 EGP, to reach the Giza metro station.

 

From there I took the metro to Koleyet El Banat (with a train change in Ataba), for the price of 10 EGP. Journey time: about 45 minutes. Please note that there are carriages dedicated only to women on the Cairo Metro.

 

From the Koleyet El Banat Metro Station, I took a taxi for the price of 100 EGP, to reach Terminal 2 of Cairo International Airport (20 minutes).

 

Before entering the Airport Check-in Area, you must undergo a security check with the scanner, then you must check in, then you must fill out the form to leave the country, then at the desk get the exit stamp from the country , then there is another security check with the scanner.

 

Flight of the Egypt Air Company from Cairo (Egypt) to Malpensa. Multi-leg ticket price with one way to Luxor and back from Khartoum, including taxes: USD 499.00.

 

My complete travel report with map, photographs and videos is available at this link:

https://vivendosalendo.blogspot.com/2020/03/viaggio-seguendo-il-fiume-nilo-in.html

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