Before leaving I had to get a visa for Iran (it can also be done at the airport but sometimes the local authorities deny it and therefore it is better to do it before leaving) and the visa for Azerbaijan (since 2010 they no longer issue it all 'Airport) with the following procedures:
HOW TO APPLY FOR AN IRAN VISA:
Go to the consulate of Iran, in Via Monte Bianco n. 57 in Milan, from Monday to Friday from 9 to 12.30, with passport (with expiry of not less than 6 months), insurance certificate (the one stipulated on the website www.viaggiaresicuri.com is fine), 2 recent passport photos, completed form , downloadable on the consulate's website (the addresses of the hotels where you will stay must be entered on the form)
After the kind employee (Gabriele) has checked the documentation, you have to fill in another form.
Then you have to pay 50 euros of fees by credit card, debit card or cash (in the latter case you have to pay them in a bank indicated by the Consulate.
Once you have paid, if this is your first time, take 10 fingerprints.
Subsequently the employee hands you a sheet, with which there is written the date of collection of the passport with the visa which is usually ready after 3 or 4 working days. (in this period, in fact, the Consulate requests authorization from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Iran).
Anyone with the aforementioned sheet can collect their passport when it is ready.
HOW TO APPLY FOR THE AZERBAJGIAN VISA
The rules for obtaining visas often change so first of all it is always better to check the official sites of the embassies and tourism bodies.
Until 2010 you could get it at the airport once you landed, or at the borders if you came by land, today you have to get it before leaving, otherwise they won't let you into the country.
To get it:
1. Go to the embassy, located in Rome;
2. Here are the data of the AZERBAIJAN EMBASSY IN ROME: Address: Viale Regina Margherita 1 - 00198 - Rome, Consular office hours: 9.30-12.30, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, Telephone: 06/85305557, 06/85357989 Fax: 06/85831448, Website: www.azembassy.it, E-mail: rome@mission.mfa.gov.az;
3. Keep in mind the website of the Azerbaijan Embassy in Rome for now shows the icon with the words "... is coming soon" and therefore it does not work;
4. Contacting the Embassy by e_mail or telephone is not easy;
5. To obtain the visa, you must deliver to the aforementioned embassy:
- a passport valid for at least 6 months
- a passport photo
- completed application form, which is found online, on the websites of the agencies prepared for obtaining the visa;
- hotel reservation with a number of nights coinciding with those of your stay in the country;
- booking of the round trip flight
- photocopy of the first passport page;
6. The fees to be paid to the Agency by bank transfer are 60 Euros;
7. The duration of the visa will coincide with no. of nights booked even if usually even if hotel bookings are less than 9 nights (for example 1 night), the visa is still issued for 10 days;
8. Cost if you get it on your dates: 60 Euros plus the cost of the transfer in addition to the 2 half mornings lost at the Embassy;
9. Cost if you contact the Agency: consular fees up to 30 days. Single entry Euro 60, commissions for payment of consular fees by bank transfer Euro 3, agency fees for normal procedure in 8/10 Euro 65, (much more if urgent is required), shipping costs of about 12 Euro for a total about 140 Euros
10. Time for obtaining: about 8 days from when the passport is brought to the Embassy, less than half with the urgent procedure;
TRAVEL REPORT
IRAN
Punctual as never before, my plane of the Turkish Company Pegasus leaves from Milan Orio al Serio at 14.00 towards Teheran (Iran), with a stopover of 5 hours at the Sabina Gokcen Airport in Istanbul in Turkey (price one way to Tehran and back to Tbilisi taxes included Euro 231.14).
I therefore arrive at 03:35 in the morning of the next day, Imam Khomeini Airport in Tehran, the capital of Iran (2 hours 30 'time zone, compared to Italy). I pass the not difficult border and I am honored by a rose that a girl with a veil kindly gives to all the passengers.
From the airport of Imam Khomeini in Tehran, I take a minibus to the National Airport of Tehran and get off just before the same, after about 45 minutes in Azadi Square in Tehran. Ticket price: IR 60,000. (you pay when you get off).
From Azadi Square, in a few minutes I reach the Meydan Metro Station, adjacent to the Tehran Bus Terminal and Gharb.
The ticket for the clean, safe and modern Tehran Metro costs IR 5,000 for a single journey, and IR 8,000 for two tickets.
The center of Tehran can also be visited with a free tourist train that passes adjacent to the Bazaar and Golestan Palace, a World Heritage Site;
The Bus_e Jonoob Terminal in Tehran can be reached with Line 1 of the Metro.
From there I take a comfortable 2.30pm night bus to Shiraz (Iran) at a cost of IR 230,000 (there are several per day). They offer you a snack on the bus and stop twice for half-hour breaks.
Arrival after about 14 hours of travel at 4.00 in the morning at the Carandish Bus Station in Shiraz (Iran).
At about 6.00 the first Savari leaves for Basij Square in Marvdasht (1 hour) at the price of 20,000IR (to be paid when you get off). There are 2 Savari about an hour, but cmq they usually leave when they are full, across the street.
From Basij Square in Marvdasht (Iran) I take a private taxi to Persepolis (20 minutes) for the price of IR 60,000.
The actual entrance of Persepolis is about 500 meters away. on foot.
Ticket for Persepolis (Iran) costs IR 150,000. In summer it is better to visit it early in the morning because the heat is impossible. Luggage storage is: free.
From Persepolis I take a private taxi to Basij Square in Marvdasht (Iran) (20 minutes) for the price of IR 50,000.
Then I take a Savari (minibus) from Basij Square in Marvdasht to Shiraz Carandish Bus Station (1 hour) for IR 20,000 (payable when you get off). There are 2 Savari about an hour, but cmq they usually leave when they are full.
From Shiraz Carandish Bus Station I take a white collective taxi to Shohada Square, located adjacent to Karim Khan Citadel, Shiraz's main attraction. Price: 30,000 IR. Time scarce 10 minutes without traffic.
I visit the center of Shiraz on foot.
Then I take a private yellow taxi between downtown and Shiraz Carandish Bus Station for the price of IR 45,000.
A Luxury bus with less than 30 seats takes me from Shiraz Carandish Bus Station to Yazd Bus Station in about 6 hours, crossing the desert. Cost: IR 205,000 (not many every day).
Yellow private taxi, cost IR 50,000, between Bus Station and Silk Road Hotel (IR 150,000 per night in dormitory with breakfast), located in the center of Yazd, 200 meters away. from the Jameh Mosque.
The old town of Yazd, a Unesco heritage site, can be easily explored on foot.
Private yellow taxi between Silk Road Hotel and Yazd Bus Station, with a 5 minute break downtown: IR 70,000
VIP Company Bus between Yazd Bus Station and Kaveh Esfahan Bus Station (Iran) at the price of IR 205,000. (5 hours, 1 every hour)
Urban bus from Kaveh Bus Station to Imam Hossein Square to Esfahan center: IR 10,000. (you pay before getting off directly to the driver).
From Imam Hossein Square to Imam Square, the second largest square in the world, there is only a short 1 km walk.
Private yellow taxi from Imam Square a few hundred meters from the Jameh Mosque in Esfahan, a UNESCO heritage site, IR 60,000.
Taxi from a few hundred meters from the Jameh Mosque to the Kaveh Bus Station in Esfahan IR 40,000.
7.30 pm night bus of the Levan Nour Company from the Kaveh Bus Station in Esfahan to a Gas Station in Zanjan (Iran) where I arrive in the middle of the night after 8 hours. Price: 160,000 IR
From the Zanjan Service Station (Iran), you have to intuitively take a bus from Tehran, headed for Tabriz and ask the driver if there is room. It is not an easy task, also because very few speak English. The cost of this bus is IR 100,000.
Arrival at Tabriz Bus Station at 11.00 in the morning.
From Tabriz Station I take a minibus that takes me downtown for the price of IR 10,000.
The huge bazaar of Tabriz is a Unesco heritage site.
To return to the Tabriz bus station I use a white collective taxi at the price of IR 10,000.
The Bus of the Prances company takes me in scarce 5 hours from the Tabriz station to Ardabil (Iran) at a price of IR 70,000.
To reach Sar Cheshmeh Square in the center of Ardabil (Iran), I use a private taxi at the price of IR 30,000.
To reach the Bus Terminal of Ardabil (Iran), from Sar Cheshmeh Square, I use a private taxi at the price of IR 50,000.
From the Ardabil Bus Terminal (Iran), I take a bus to Tehran which stops after an hour on the state road, in the suburbs of Astara. Iran price 30,000 IR
Private yellow taxi from Statale x Theran to Hotel Baran in Astara (Iran) 20,000 IR.
Hotel Baran in Astara (Iran), without breakfast IR 500,000 in single room.
Private taxi from Hotel Baran to the Frontier in Astara (Iran), IR 50,000
Azerbaijan
Across the border between Iran and Azerbaijan in Astara.
I change money in a shop just over the border.
Private taxi from Frontiera to bus Station in Astara (Azerbaijan), 3 AZN.
Bus Astara - Baku 6 AZN (about 7 hours_)
Urban bus between the Main Bus Station and the 20 January Square Metro Station in Baku: 0,20 AZN (payable when you get off), directly to the driver;
A ride on the Baku Metro costs 0,40 AZN.
The historic center of Baku, enclosed between walls and the Caspian Sea, can be easily explored on foot and is protected by Unesco.
A taxi ride from the historic center to the main train station located in Piazza 28 Maggio: 4 AZN.
Georgia
International daily train with second class sleeping car, departing from Baku (Azerbaijan) at 8.30pm and arriving in Tbilisi (Georgia) at 10.45am the next morning, although it often arrives more than 1 hour and a half late. Price 29 AZN.
In Tbilisi to use the Metro and the Cable Car you need to get a card which costs 0.50 GEL. Then you can recharge it as much as you want taking into account that a ride costs 1 GEL.
In Tbilisi to use the city buses you have to pay 0.50 GEL through the machines installed on the buses, which however only accept coins of 0.10, 0.20 and 0.50 GEL.
The historic center of Tbilisi can be easily explored on foot.
NAGORNO KARABAKH
Train with sleeping car in third class, daily departing from Tbilisi (Georgia) at 10.15 pm and arriving in Yerevan (Armenia) at 7.30 am the next morning. Price: 29.77 GEL
Private taxi from Yerevan Train Station to Kilikya Bus Station. AMD price 3,000, big jab, because the right price is AMD 3,000.
8.30am international bus between Yerevan (Armenia) and Stepanakert (Nagorno Karabakh): AMD 5,000 (approximately 7 hours). There are also some Marshurutkas that make this route taking over 1 hour less. Winding path in the middle of the mountains not recommended in winter. We pass through Goris.
The Nagorno Karabakh Visa must be obtained when you are already in the country because without it they won't let you leave the country. So as soon as you arrive in Stepanakert you have to go to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs located in Viale Azatamartikned at 500 meters. approximately from the Bus Station, in front of the Hotel Europe. The staff are very kind and after filling out the form, giving the passport photo and paying 3,000 AMD in 10 minutes, they stick the visa on your passport or if you prefer on a sheet of paper because in the first case you can no longer enter Azerbaijan for 5 years .
I sleep in the Guest House in Via Sasuntsi in Stepanakert (Nagorno Karabakh), offered to me by a gentleman who offers it to you at the bus station. Cost: 5,000 AMD per night, including transport to and from the bus station and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for the visa.
The center of Stepanakert (Nagorno Karabakh) can be easily explored on foot.
ARMENIA
8.30 am Marshurutka international between Stepanakert (Nagorno Karabakh) and Yerevan (Armenia): AMD 5,000 (scarce 6 hours). There are also other Marshurutkas that make this route. Winding path in the middle of the mountains not recommended in winter. We pass through Goris.
A ride on the Yerevan Metro costs AMD 100: there is the token that is inserted to enter.
A ride on the Yerevan Bus costs AMD 100: You pay directly to the driver before getting off.
Bus n. 111 between Yerevan (Kilikya bus station) and Echmiadzin (near the Holy See, it is not the last stop) costs AMD 200. It leaves about every 30 minutes and takes about half an hour. You pay directly to the driver before getting off.
Visit to the Holy See of Echmiadzin (Armenia), a Unesco heritage site.
Bus n. 111 between Echmiadzin (near the Holy See) and Yerevan (Kilikya bus station) costs AMD 200. It leaves about every 30 minutes and takes about half an hour. You pay directly to the driver before getting off.
The center of Yerevan can be explored on foot and the top of the most important monument of the city, "The Waterfall", can be reached using the internal escalators;
GEORGIA
International Marshurutka at 1.30pm from Yerevan (Kilikya Bus Station) to Ortachala Bus Station in Tbilisi (Georgia): price 6,500 AMD, 6 hours. It is the last of the day. First there are several others.
Private Taxi from Ortachala Bus Station in Tbilisi (Georgia) to Lucky Hostel in Machabeli Street n. 2, Tbilisi, at 100 mt. from the Town Hall and the Piazza della Libertà. Cost: 10 GEL but it's a big hit. Right price 3 GEL.
Lucky Hostel in Machabeli Street n. 2, Tbilisi, Georgia, at 100 mt. from the Town Hall and Piazza della Libertà, 15 GEL per night without breakfast.
Didube Bus Station Tbilisi is located in the northern suburbs and can be reached by Metro.
Marshurutka approximately every hour from Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi to Gori (Georgia): GEL 5, abundant 2 hours of travel.
The Gori Bus Station is located on Chavchavadze Ave, about 1 km from the Stalin Museum. But the Marshurutka from Tbilisi on request can stop in front of the Succitato Museum, which is the main attraction of Gori.
Marshurutka every hour approximately from Gori to Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi: GEL 3, abundant 2 hours of travel.
Marshurutka every 20 minutes from Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi to Mtskheta (Georgia): GEL 1, scarce half an hour of travel.
Taxi to Jvari Hill Monastery in Mtskheta (Georgia): 10 GEL round trip with a 15 minute stop to visit the Monastery.
Marshurutka every 20 minutes from Mtskheta (Georgia) To Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi: GEL 1, scarce half an hour of travel.
The urban bus no. 37 which also stops in front of the Freedom Square Metro Station in Viale Rustaveli in Tbilisi as well as many other stops, takes you to the Tbilisi Airport in about 45 minutes: price 0.50 GEL. You have to pay 0.50 GEL through the machines installed on the buses, which however only accept coins of 0.10, 0.20 and 0.50 GEL.
Punctual as never before from the Tbilisi Airport my plane of the Turkish Company Pegasus in the direction of Milan Orio al Serio, with a stopover of 5 hours at the Sabina Gokcen Airport in Istanbul in Turkey (price one way to Tehran and return to Tbilisi taxes including Euro 231.14).
My complete travel report with map, photographs and videos is available at this link:
http://vivendosalendo.blogspot.com/2015/08/viaggio-in-iran-e-nel-caucaso.html
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