Punctual as never before from Terminal 1 of Milan Malpensa Airport at 20.20 my plane no. ET703 of the Ethiopian Airlines Company in the direction of Terminal 2 of the International Airport of Addis Ababa Bole (Ethiopia), with a technical stop in Rome of 1 hour to pick up passengers but without getting off the aircraft, (price of the multi-leg ticket including taxes from Malpensa to Addis Abeba (Ethiopia), from Addis Abeba (Ethiopia) to Gondar (Ethiopia) and from Djibouti (Djibouti) to Malpensa with a stopover in Addis Ababa: Euro 672.45).
Dinner and breakfast are served on the aforementioned aircraft.
Arrival on time at 6.40 am, at Terminal 2 of Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (Ethiopia).
When summer time is in force in Italy, there is a 1 hour time zone, compared to Italy, when solar time is 2 hours. Keep in mind that in Ethiopia the hours are expressed as follows: when the sun comes up for the Ethiopians it is 12:00 (our 6:00); one hour later is 1:00 am, two hours later it is 2:00 am and so on. The sun sets at 12:00 (our 18:00) and one hour after sunset it is again 1:00. To specify the time of day, Ethiopians use the expressions "in the morning", "in the evening" and "at night" instead of "am" and "pm" as in English-speaking countries. This system is widely used, but some shops, offices, restaurants, hotels and all airports use the European 24-hour model.
To enter Ethiopia an entry visa is required, both for tourism and for work.
From 1 July 2016, a new online procedure for applying for an entry visa to the country came into force, which must be requested online by connecting to the site “https://www.evisa.gov.et”.
After entering the required data, attaching the necessary documents and paying by credit card $ 52 (single entry, 30 days), the applicant receives a receipt with a barcode within ten days to be presented at the Ethiopian border crossing acquisition of biometric data and having communicated the name and address of the first hotel where you are staying, you get a visa. It is possible to obtain a tourist visa directly at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (Ethiopia), without carrying out the online procedure described above, by paying $ 50 in cash and providing all the necessary data. Keep in mind that the tourist visa on arrival is issued only at the aforementioned airport and therefore no visas are issued in all other Ethiopian airports and even less at land borders. The same goes for those who intend to obtain a tourist visa with multiple entries. In all of these latter cases it is necessary to obtain a visa at the Ethiopian Embassy in Rome before departure.
The compatriots interested in extending their stay in Ethiopia must go personally, in the days immediately preceding the expiry of the first visa issued, to the Immigration Office ("FDRE Main Department for Immigration and National Affairs", also commonly known as "Immigration Office", located in the central post office area, the Black Lion Hospital and the Swedish Embassy), with a passport, a passport photo and 100 Dollars. Please note that any subsequent renewals are subject to very high rates (150 Dollars for the second renewal, 200 for the third) and that, in case of permanence in the country beyond the visa expiry terms, fines are foreseen and difficulties may arise. .
To enter Ethiopia, only for those coming from countries where Yellow Fever is endemic, it is mandatory to be in possession of a valid Yellow Fever vaccination certificate which is generally not requested at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport ( Ethiopia)
Currency and customs formalities: Attention is drawn to the need to scrupulously comply with Ethiopian currency regulations, refraining from resorting to black exchange. Foreign currency imported into the country must be declared if it exceeds $ 3,000 (or equivalent in another currency). Upon leaving the country, you may be asked to show the documentation certifying the regularity of the changes made during your stay (bank receipts). Possession of more than 200 birr (ETB) is not allowed upon leaving the country. The use of the credit card is limited to the main commercial establishments. Automatic bank branches are widespread in the main cities.
Ethiopian legislation does not allow the export of artifacts deemed to be of historical interest. Due to the general unpreparedness of the border authorities to recognize such artifacts, there have been cases of seizure of completely common objects purchased by tourists in normal markets in the past. It is therefore advisable to always request, and to keep carefully, the purchase receipts, in order to be able to show them to the aforementioned customs authorities in the event of a dispute.
Some problems also occurred in cases of export of agricultural products (fruit and coffee), albeit only for personal consumption.
At Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (Ethiopia), it is possible to withdraw money at ATMs, or change cash (Euros, Dollars or Pounds), at an exchange rate similar to that obtained in the banks of the rest of Ethiopia ( 1 Euro = 33.40 Birr).
Keep in mind that in cities like Addis Abeba, all banks are closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays and therefore you can only change money in black at a rate of around 1 Euro = 34.00 Birr.
Keep in mind that in Ethiopia the public and private transport service on weekends and Sundays undergo some reductions and that buses and minibuses only run from sunrise to sunset or a little later. The Ethiopian government has imposed a ban on traveling at night. The only minibus authorized to travel at night is the one between Bahir Dar - Addis Ababa, which takes only 8 hours to cover this route.
Keep in mind that even if very few vehicles circulate on the roads of Ethiopia, with the exception of large cities such as Addis Ababa, Gondar, etc., overland journeys by bus are very slow and to avoid spending most of the holiday by bus it is it is advisable to take internal flights. To this end, I specify that the only company that operates internal flights is Ethiopian Airlines. The cost of the tickets varies from case to case: to obtain the best fare it is necessary to purchase the ticket at the Company's offices in Ethiopia and be in possession of an Ethiopian Airlines international flight ticket. In this case, the cost of a domestic flight can cost between $ 50 and $ 100 depending on the route. At least double if you do not have a ticket for an international flight of the Ethiopian Airlines company. Finally, keep in mind that the seats on domestic flights sell out quickly, especially in high season, and therefore the sooner you buy the ticket, the better.
In Ethiopia many people speak English and all road and tourist signs are written in both Amharic and English.
Religions in Ethiopia: Orthodox Christianity (43.5%), Islam (33.9%), Protestant Christianity (18.5%), Catholic and animist Christian minorities
In Ethiopia the police are generally polite to foreigners and do not bother foreigners with requests for money.
From Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (Ethiopia), located about 5 km south-east of the center of the capital, to reach Meskal Square (the nerve center of Addis Ababa), the fastest solution is to take a taxi at the price variable between 10 and 20 USD (depending on your bargaining skills), while the cheapest solution is to exit the airport and walk north-east for about 1 km until you reach the roundabout between Ring Road and Bole Road (Africa Ave), cross it and go to Bole Road where numerous buses and minibuses pass directly to Meskal Square. The price of the buses is Birr 2 and is paid to the assistant inside the bus. The price of the minibuses is Birr 3 and is paid to the attendant before getting off.
Addis Ababa is one of the largest cities as well as one of the safest in Africa. However, you must pay attention to pickpockets in the crowded light rail, in the Piazza district and in the Terra Bus Station area. Bole Road appears very safe, guarded by many policemen.
Meskal Square, is the most important square in Addis Ababa as well as the largest in Ethiopia. On Sunday mornings there are dozens of people playing sports. In the square there are also several banks and the offices of some long-distance luxury bus companies, such as Salam Bus and Sky Bus, as well as dozens of White and Blue Taxis waiting for customers.
Since 2016, the new elevated light rail has been in operation in Addis Ababa consisting of 2 lines: line 1 from west to east: Torhai Loch - Ayat, line 2 from north to south: Menilik II Square - Kality, passing through Terra Bus Station, Mexico Square and Meskal Square. The same is excessively crowded at peak times. The price of a ride varies from 1 Birr to 6 Birr depending on the distance to be covered. From the 1st to the last stop the ride takes over 1 hour.
If you want to see the most important attractions of Addis Ababa you can rent a blue and white taxi for half a day at Meskal Square for the price of 500 Birr. (to get this price you need to bargain strongly). Keep in mind that yellow taxis cost a lot more. They asked me for 2,000 negotiable Birr.
A church to visit in the center of Addis Ababa, not far from Kilo Square, is the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity. It is open every day from 8.00 to 13.00 and from 14.00 to 18.00 while the adjacent museum is open every day from 8.00 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00. If Ethiopians can enter for free, foreigners must pay 200 Birr which allows entry to both the Cathedral and the Museum.
Another church to visit in Addis Ababa is located in the chaotic Piazza district and is the Cathedral and the Museum of San Giorgio. The latter is open every day from 9.00 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00. If Ethiopians can enter for free, foreigners must pay 200 Birr which allows entry to both the Museum and the Cathedral.
The Derg Monument, located on Churchill Ave is the most beautiful in Addis Ababa. Admission is free, but it is advisable to give a tip of 30 Birr to the policeman who watches over it. It is allowed to take as many photographs as you want.
The Museum of the Martyrs of the Red Terror, in Meskal Square, is open every day from 8.30 to 18.30. Admission is free but it is almost mandatory to leave an offer.
To reach Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (Ethiopia), located about 5 km south-east of the capital city center, from Meskal Square (the nerve center of Addis Ababa), the fastest solution is to take a taxi to variable price between 10 and 20 USD (depending on your bargaining skills), while the cheapest solution is to go to Bole Road (Africa Ave), in front of the Museum of the Martyrs of the Red Terror where numerous direct buses and minibuses pass at the roundabout between Ring Road and Bole Road (Africa Ave). Get off, cross it and walk for about 1 km before reaching the airport (on the left is Terminal 2, for international flights, while on the right, Terminal 1 for national flights). The price of the buses is Birr 2 and is paid to the assistant inside the bus. The price of the minibuses is Birr 3 and is paid to the attendant before getting off.
Punctual as never before from Terminal 1 of Addis Ababa Bole International Airport (Ethiopia) at 14.55 my plane no. ET114 of the Ethiopian Airlines Company in the direction of Gondar Airport (Ethiopia), (multi-leg ticket price including taxes from Malpensa to Addis Ababa (Ethiopia), from Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) to Gondar (Ethiopia) and from Djibouti (Djibouti) at Malpensa with a stopover in Addis Ababa: Euro 672.45).
A small snack is served on the aforementioned aircraft.
Punctual arrival at 16.05, at Gondar Airport (Ethiopia).
At the very small Gondar Airport (Ethiopia), it is not possible to exchange cash (Euros, Dollars or Pounds), while it is possible to do so in the Banks of Gondar at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 33.40 Birr.
Keep in mind that in cities like Gondar, all banks are closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays and therefore you can only change money in black at a rate of around 1 Euro = 34.00 Birr.
From Gondar Airport (Ethiopia), located in Azezo, about 17 km south of the city center of Gondar, to reach the latter you can take a shared taxi that leaves when full (4 people) and costs 100 Birr ( 20 '), or take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc) that takes you to the center of Azezo (30 Birr, 10') and then take a Minibus that leaves every 15 minutes for Gondar (5 Birr, 20 ').
It goes without saying that the main attraction not to be missed in Gondar is the Imperial Citadel, with an area of 70,000 square meters which includes numerous castles and palaces. It has been declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco. The complex is open every day from 8.30 to 12.30 and from 13.30 to 18.00. Admission is free for Ethiopians while it costs 200 Birr for foreigners. The cost of the non-compulsory guide is about 200 Birr (depending on your bargaining ability). It often happens to see Spouses who come to take pictures after the wedding.
Another main attraction not to be missed in Gondar is the fortified church of Debre Berhan Selassie. It is open every day from 8.30 to 12.30 and from 13.30 to 18.00. Admission is free for Ethiopians while it costs 100 Birr for foreigners. The same is located 2 km north - east of the Imperial Citadel. The cheapest way to get there is to take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 20 Birr even though I paid 50.
The cheapest way to sleep in the center of Gondar is to stay overnight at the New Day Pension. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 100 Birr. Free Wifi only in the common area. Paid breakfast.
One of the owners of the New Day Pension, offered me a day trip for the next day to the Simien Mountains National Park, declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco, and precisely to the Jinbar Waterfall, with 2 other foreigners departing at 7.30 from the aforementioned Hotel at the price of $ 70 all inclusive; however, at the agreed time no one was found and even the owner of the hotel magically disappeared. So I cashed in a nice bin even if I didn't lose even 1 dollar as I didn't pay anything in advance. I only lost 3 hours of precious time.
Keep in mind that all Southbound Buses and Minibuses (for example Bahir Dar and Addis Ababa) do not leave from Gondar Bus Station, but from Azezo Station, about 17 km south of the city center of Gondar. To this end, it is necessary to know that every 15 'scarce depart from a northern side street of Bahir Dar - Gonder Road, 100 meters - west of the roundabout in front of the central post office of Gondar, minibuses for the center of Azezo. Cost of the ride: 5 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: scarce half an hour.
From the center of Azezo, to reach the Bus Station, located about 1.5 km south - west, it is necessary to take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 20 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
From the Azezo Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Bahir Dar. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 70 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 2 hours 30 '. If you are interested in reaching the tourist port of Bahir Dar, notify the driver who will drop you off at the entrance to the nearby Cathedral of San Giorgio.
At the marina of Bahir Dar, you are offered various boat trips to the monasteries of Lake Tana. You can choose the full day one at the monasteries of the Zege Peninsula, or the half day one at the Blue Nile Falls or the Entos Eyesu, St Gabrael Unity (access only for men) and Debra Mariam monasteries located on 3 Different islands. Nothing special. The cost of the boat that leaves when full is 300 Birr, over 100 Birr for the entrance to each Monastery even if it is closed. Two of the 3 monasteries I visited were closed. I also saw the Source of the Blue Nile. Overall a disappointing experience
From the center of Bahir Dar, to reach the Bus Station, you need to take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 15 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
Keep in mind that to reach Lalibela from Bahir Dar you can take the 6 o'clock direct bus, or one of the 5 minibuses a day to Woldia, get off at Gaschena and from there take a connection with Lalibela.
If, on the other hand, you arrive at the Bahir Dar Bus Station, after 18.00 the only option is to take a direct minibus to Nifas Mewch'A, where you need to spend the night. Cost of the ride: 150 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: 3 hours scarce.
In Nifas Mewch'A, I spent the night at the only hotel in the town, located 100 meters away. from the Bus Station. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 150 Birr (however, I had the feeling that I was cheated and that the right price I would have to pay was 60 Birr). Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
In theory from Nifas Mewch'A there should be a direct bus to Lalibela every day at 6 am. Instead I did not find it. Instead, I found that from the Nifas Mewch'A Bus Station, several minibuses a day for Gaschena leave from 6 until sunset, when they are full (even those headed to Woldia stop in Gaschena). Cost of the ride: 40 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: approximately 1 h 30 '.
To reach Lalibela, from Gaschena keep in mind that there are some buses and minibuses, especially in the morning, although it is possible to have to wait up to 2 hours to find a vehicle. Little chance of finding one in the afternoon. Cost of the ride: 40 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: 2 hours. The dirt road for most of the journey rises and falls continuously through a mountainous landscape that offers wonderful views.
From the Bus Station, located over 2 km south of the center, to reach the latter, you need to take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 10 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
Lalibela is the most touristic city in Ethiopia where there are many luxury hotels. The cheapest accommodation, however, is the Unique Pension located 300 meters away. from the centre. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 100 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
In Lalibela there is the most important and most touristic site in Ethiopia: the Rock Churches. The site is open every day from 6.00 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00. The entrance ticket costs 1,380.90 Birr and is valid for 5 days. Keep in mind that it is usually checked by employees at the entrance of each church. It is possible to take photographs anywhere but without flash inside the churches.
In the center of Lalibela is the Ethiopian Airlines office where you can book flights to Addis Ababa, (twice a day), Aksum (once a day), Gondar (once a day) and Mekele (twice a day). week). Please note that seats on domestic flights sell out quickly, especially in high season, so the sooner you buy your ticket, the better.
To reach Mekele from Lalibela by public transport it is necessary to change the vehicle twice, that is to Gaschena and Woldia and even starting early in the morning it is very difficult to make the journey in a single day. It should also be kept in mind that Woldia is a fairly dangerous city where there are clashes between rival gangs.
For the aforementioned reasons it is better to rent a private vehicle together with other tourists than in just over 8 hours it takes you to Mekele. And for this service you can rely on your hotel, on authorized agencies or on the local kids who hang out in the center and propose their offers. There are those who offered me the trip at the price of 600 negotiable Birr, departing at 6.00 a.m.
Instead, I accepted the offer of a guy who offered me the 8-hour journey from Lalibela to Mekele at a price of $ 150 (over 200 Birr commission), departing at 8.30 a.m. by private vehicle and a 1-day excursion to Dallol in the Danakil Depression with the Ethio Travel & Tours Agency (located on the main street of Mekele, adjacent to the Hotel Milano), including breakfast, lunch, transport and compulsory armed escort. A real bargain if you consider that the Dallol excursion is usually sold for 2 days (you see the same things you see with the 1 day tour but with less tight times) at the total price of 400 $ and that the assistant of the Agency told me to keep my mouth shut because the price I had obtained was too low and therefore out of market.
In Mekele, I spent the night at the Atse Kaleb Hotel, one of the cheapest in the city, located on the main street about 1 km from the Ethio Travel & Tours Agency. Cost for a room with double bed and ensuite bathroom: 200 Birr. Wifi in the common areas, but often not working. Breakfast not included.
To move around Mekele, you can go on foot or take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost for a foreigner should be 20 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
The next morning at 4.00 am, the employee of the Ethio Travel & Tours Agency will pick you up with an off-road vehicle at your hotel, whatever it is. In about 2 hours you reach Maaqah Qari, where you have breakfast and join the other tourists who have opted for the 2 or more days tour in the Danakil Depression. After breakfast, take a 4WD along a paved road to Hamedela, the last inhabited center. Here the armed guards go up, mandatory by law, after some tourists were murdered by unknown persons in 2012 in the Danakil Depression, which is worth remembering that it is located a few kilometers from the border with Eritrea, a country still at war with the 'Ethiopia.
From Hamedela, a dirt road begins which in less than an hour leads to the Dallol car park. During the journey it is very likely to see the camel caravans carrying the salt.
From the parking lot you have to walk uphill for about 20 minutes on rough terrain to reach the hottest place on the planet (average temperature 34.4 ° C), where large irregularly shaped protuberances of sulfur and iron oxide draw a yellow and orange landscape which more or less resembles that of a coral reef. Ten minutes' walk ahead is the second part of this landscape miracle.
Back at the car, the Tour continues with a short excursion to Sandstone Formations, where Rock Pinnacles rush upwards creating a fantastic environment. Afterwards you always reach the Potassium Lake by off-road vehicle, then continue to the salt mines where the Afar break the salt with picks before loading them on the backs of the camels. Last stop at Asale Salt Lake before returning to Maaqah Qari for lunch. From here you return to Mekele where the Tour ends at around 4.00 pm.
In the center of Mekele, located on the Main Street, there is the Ethiopian Airlines office, where you can book flights to Addis Ababa (three times a day). Please note that seats on domestic flights sell out quickly, especially in high season, so the sooner you buy your ticket, the better.
From the center, to reach the Mekele Bus Station, located on the north-west outskirts of the city, you can take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost for a foreigner should be 30 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
From the Mekele Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Adigrat. Cost of the ride: 47 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 2 hours.
In Adigrat, the second largest city in Tigray, as well as the last one before the closed border with Eritrea, I slept at the Hilina Hotel, located just 100 meters away. from the Bus Station. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 60 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
Although the best place to find a way to Debre Damo Monastery is Adigrat, it is not a trivial undertaking. It is true that there is a scheduled minibus that runs every day at least one ride to Debre Damo from the Adigrat Bus Station with departure at 6.30 - 7.00 am, it is also true that you will have to collide with the driver who will ask you for 600 Birr for the round trip and the wait of 1 hour for the visit of the Monastery instead of the 30 Birr that the Ethiopians pay and in the end you will have to give them to him because otherwise 3 km before reaching Debre Damo, he will return to Adigrat leaving you in in the middle of the mountains, in a sea of problems. The trip lasts about 2 hours, on a paved road up to the fork where you turn left and a dirt road begins up and down in the mountains that offers enchanting landscapes.
The Debre Damo Monastery, one of the most revered in Ethiopians, is located a few kilometers from Eritrea on the top of an amba (flat-topped mountain), surrounded by sheer cliffs. Looking at it from the base of the mountain you will wonder how it was possible to build a Monastery up there. To reach it from the parking lot below it will be necessary to face several dozen stairs until you reach the base of the 15 m high rocky wall, which you will have to overcome with the help of a rope made of leather and another that the Monks will tie you on your body for your safety and to help you climb. This service costs 100 Birr (cost for ascent and descent). After passing the rocky jump, an armed guard, to be paid 50 Birr, will accompany you to the entrance of the Monastery which you will reach after passing a few more steps and a short flat path. Then you will have to wait for the Monk who has the Monastery Key who will arrive after about 15 minutes, will make you pay 200 Birr, will issue you the receipt and only then will you be able to enter the very small Monastery.
From the Adigrat Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Aksum. Departures when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 52.90 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. Paved road up and down in the middle of the mountains that offers enchanting landscapes.
From Aksum Bus Station, located in the south - east area, you can take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc) to reach the center. The cost for a foreigner should be 20 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
In Aksum there are several attractions to visit. Keep that a single ticket of Birr 100, you can visit the silo delle Stele (declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco) and all other tourist places except the Complex of the Churches of S Maria di Sion and the monasteries of Abba Pentalewon and Abba Liqanos . The ticket is valid for three days and is on sale at the tourist information center located on the stretch of road between the Piazza and the Complex of the Churches of S Maria di Sion.
In Aksum, to go to see the Baths of the Queen of Sheba, the Inscription of King Ezana and the Tombs of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel, I rented a motorcycle for an hour for 100 Birr.
The complex of the Churches of Santa Maria di Sion, which includes the New Church, the old one and the Museum is open from Monday to Friday from 7.30 to 12.30 and from 14.30 to 17.30 and on Saturday and Sunday from 9.00 to 12.00 and from 2.30pm to 5.30pm. If Ethiopians can enter for free, foreigners must pay 200 Birr which allows entry to both the Cathedral and the Museum.
In the center of Mekele, located on the Main Street, there is the Ethiopian Airlines office, where you can book flights to Addis Ababa, (2 times a day), Lalibela (1 time a day), Gondar (1 time a day) . Please note that seats on domestic flights sell out quickly, especially in high season, so the sooner you buy your ticket, the better.
Please note that there are no direct buses from Aksum to Gondar, but it is mandatory to change buses in Shire.
From Aksum Bus Station, there are frequent minibuses to Shire from sunrise to sunset. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 25 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 1 hour.
In Shire, I slept at the Debredamo Hotel, located just 200 meters away. from the Bus Station and precisely on the road to the right of the same looking at the entrance to the gate. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 60 Birr. Cost for a room with double bed and private bathroom: 100 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
From Shire Bus Station, which opens at approximately 6.30 a.m. , leaves every day at 7.00 a.m. a direct bus to Gondar which also stops in Derbak. Cost of the ride to Derbak: 105 Birr. It is paid to the attendant during the trip. Duration of the trip to Derbak: a generous 6 hours. Road that is 80% paved up and down in the middle of the mountains that offers enchanting landscapes. There are also 2 checkpoints where you need to get off the bus and have your backpack and passport checked. On the way you will also cross the National Park of the Simien Mountains.
In Derbak to organize an excursion to the Simien Mountains National Park, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, it is necessary to go to the Park Management, located in the main street, open every day from 8.30 to 12.30 and from 13.30 to 17.30. There you have to pay the entrance to the park of 90 Birr a day, hire an armed guard at a cost of 150 Birr a day. Keep in mind that the daily cost of an off-road vehicle is 2,400 Birr.
From the Park Direction, to reach the Derbak Bus Station, located in the city center, you can take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost for a foreigner should be 15 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
From the Derbak Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Gondar. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 40 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 2 hours.
Keep in mind that all Southbound Buses and Minibuses (for example Bahir Dar and Addis Ababa) do not leave from Gondar Bus Station, but from Azezo Station, about 17 km south of the city center of Gondar. To this end, it is necessary to know that every 15 'scarce depart from a northern side street of Bahir Dar - Gonder Road, 100 meters - west of the roundabout in front of the central post office of Gondar, minibuses for the center of Azezo. Cost of the ride: 5 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: scarce half an hour.
From the center of Azezo, to reach the Bus Station, located about 1.5 km south - west, it is necessary to take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 10 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
From the Azezo Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Bahir Dar. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 80 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 2 hours 30 '. If you are interested in taking the night minibus to Addis Ababa, notify the driver who will take you to the departure point in Bahir Dar, which is the main road and not the Bus Station.
The only minibus authorized to travel overnight in Ethiopia is the one between Bahir Dar - Addis Ababa, which takes only 8 hours to cover this route. Usually the same leaves from the main avenue of Bahir Dar, around 9.00 - 9-30 and in any case when all the seats are occupied. The cost of the ride is 350 Birr. If you want, you can also get off at Debre Libanos, but keep in mind that you arrive here at 3:30 am and that the only hotel present is the Ethio German Park Hotel, but at that time it is closed. If it is true that the entrance gate is on the main road, the actual structure is 50 meters away. behind. In order not to spend the night outdoors, the driver of the minibus gave me a hand who attracted attention by screaming and banging loudly on the gate until 2 armed guards intervened, who woke the porter who in turn woke the German owner. Eventually I somehow managed to get a room with a double bed and ensuite bathroom for the price of 500 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included. Wonderful view of the gorge below from the balcony of my room.
The Ethio German Park Hotel, is located at the intersection of the connecting road between Addis Ababa and Gondar and the road to the Debre Libanos Monastery and right here there are several Baja (Tuc - Tuc) a day that in 10 minutes you leads to the aforementioned Monastery. The cost of the ride is 5 Birr, but the Baja only moves when it is full (4 - 5 people plus the driver).
Debre Libanos Monastery is open every day. If Ethiopians can enter for free, foreigners must pay 200 Birr which allows entry to both the Cathedral and the Sacred Grotto, reachable in 20 minutes along an uphill path. In theory, you should also pay 200 Birr for the camera, but I didn't pay and I took the photos anyway and the priest who accompanied me on the visit didn't tell me anything.
From the square adjacent to the Debre Libanos Monastery, from dawn to dusk there are minibuses to the Terra Bus Station in Addis Ababa. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 50 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 2 hours.
Beware of pickpockets in the Terra Bus Station area.
From the Terra Bus Station, if you want to reach Meskal Square, the simplest and cheapest solution is to take the Light Metro and get off at the “Stadium” stop. Travel duration is half an hour short. Ticket cost that can be purchased at the Desk located near the start of the stairs is Birr 4.
Keep in mind that if you want to reach Debre Zeyit from Addis Ababa you need to go to the Akaky Kaliti Bus Station on the southern outskirts of the capital.
From the Terra Bus Station, if you want to reach the Akaky Kaliti Bus Station, the simplest and cheapest solution is to take the Light Metro and get off at the “Akaky Kaliti” stop. Journey time approximately 1 hour. The ticket cost that can be purchased at the Desk located near the beginning of the stairs is Birr 6. Then take a very crowded urban bus that runs for the remaining 10 km to the Akaky Kaliti Bus Station for the price of 2 Birr.
From Akaky Kaliti Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Debre Zeyit. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 15 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 1 hour.
From Debre Zeyit's Bus Station, to reach the Dreamland Garden Restaurant, on the shore of Lake Bishoftu, you need to take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 25 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
The best way to appreciate this lake is from the edge of the Crater, from the Dreamland Garden Restaurant. I managed to do it without paying anything.
To see other 3 Debre Zeyit Lakes: Lake Chelekleka, Lake Babogaya and Lake Hora, I rented a Baja (Tuc - Tuc), at the price of 200 Birr for 3 hours.
Back in Addis Ababa I spent the night at the Hotel Buffet de la Gare, also run by an Italian, located in the center, 30 meters away. from the railway station. Cost for a room with double bed and private bathroom: 350 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
If you want to reach Dire Dawa from Addis Ababa, keep in mind that long-distance buses leave around 6.00 am from Bus Station Terra, located north - west of the Merkato. To have any hope of finding a ticket, show up no later than 4.30, paying attention to pickpockets and snatchers. If you don't have the time or desire to leave so early, you can make the journey by breaking the journey into several sections. For example, I left Addis Ababa at noon and from Meskal Square (the nerve center of Addis Abeba), I went to Bole Road (Africa Ave), in front of the Museum of the Martyrs of the Red Terror and I took one of the numerous buses (2 Birr) and minibus (3 Birr) direct to the roundabout between Ring Road and Bole Road (Africa Ave). I got off and walked right on Ring Road for 400m. about until you find the minibus stationary leaving for the Akaky Kaliti Bus Station (10 Birr).
From Akaky Kaliti Bus Station, from sunrise to sunset there are frequent minibuses to Nazret. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 65 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: 1 hour and a half short. Avoid Buses which are much slower.
Keep in mind that in Nazareth, buses or minibuses from Addis Ababa end their journey at the Northern Bus Station, but the buses heading north - east depart from the Southern one. A local minibus connects these 2 stations for the price of 3 Birr. Alternatively you can take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost should be 30 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
From the Northern Bus Station of Nazareth, there are some buses to Dire Dawa, the last of which leaves around 3.30 pm. Departure however when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 200 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 8 hours. However, the driver at the crossroads between Dire Dawa and Harar decided to change his mind and continue to Harar and unload me along with 10 other passengers. Luckily a minibus picked us up and took us to Dire Dawa, where I arrived at 00.15, for the price of 30 Birr.
There are several checkpoints between Nazareth and Dire Dawa.
In Dire Dawa I spent the night at the Tesfa Hotel, located a few tens of meters from the Dil Chora Reference Hospital. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 100 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
There are many Tramps on the streets of Dire Dawa.
To get around Dire Dawa, you can either go on foot or take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc). The cost for a foreigner should be 20 Birr although they will probably ask you for 50 or even 100 (bargain heavily).
From the Dire Dawa Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Harar. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 22 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 1 hour and a half.
Harar Bus Station is located just outside the Old City, a few hundred meters from Shoa Gate.
In Harar I spent the night at the Abay Minch Hotel, located 400 meters away. from Shoa Gate. Cost for a room with double bed and shared bathroom: 120 Birr. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
To see a beautiful panorama of the old city from above, take a Baja (Tuc - Tuc) to the Cemetery and stop on the road below. Cost 30 Birr. Returning to the center, I took a shared Baja (Tuc - Tuc) for 2 Birr.
The Old City of Harar has been declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco. It is very fascinating to get lost in the beautiful alleys.
If you don't have the opportunity to visit a traditional inhabited house, don't worry: the Harari Cultural Center, an ancient house converted into a museum, is almost as fascinating as other buildings of this type. It is open from Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 8.00 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00, on Friday from 8.00 to 11.30 and from 14.00 to 17.00 and on Sunday from 8.00 to 12.00. The entrance ticket costs 40 Birr, plus 10 Birr for the camera.
An attraction not to be missed is the meal of the Hyenas which consists in feeding the 2nd predator in the world with meat every evening at around 7.30 pm. There are 2 places to watch this show: one near the Sheikh Aw Anser Shrine, near the Eastern Wall and the other just north of the Fallana Gate, near the Christian Slaughterhouse. You have the opportunity to see the hyenas at 2 meters. of distance. That evening I was the only tourist present at the show which lasted about half an hour and they asked me for 150 Birr. To get there I took a Baja (Tuc - Tuc), paying 20 Birr for it.
To reach Somaliland from Harar it is necessary to go first to Jijiga, taking one of the direct minibuses or change at Babille.
From Harar Bus Station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to Babille. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 20 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: 1 hour scarce.
From the center of Babille, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses and buses to the Jijiga bus station. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 30 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: about 1 hour.
From the Jijiga bus station, from dawn to dusk there are frequent minibuses to the border city of Togo-Wuchale. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 30 Birr. You pay the attendant before getting off. Duration of the trip: approximately 45 minutes.
From the center of Togo-Wuchale to reach the border with Somaliland it is necessary to use a Baja (Tuc - Tuc), paying 5 Birr.
My complete travel report
with map, photographs and videos is available at this link:
http://vivendosalendo.blogspot.com/2018/06/viaggio-in-etiopia-addis-abeba-gondar.html