Report of the travel to Eritrea, through the following locations: Asmara, Keren, Ghinda, Massawa, Dekemhare, Saganèiti, Sycamore Valley, Adi Keyh, Qohaito, Senafè, Metera and Mendefera.

  

Flight of the Ethiopian Airlines Company from Malpensa to Asmara (Eritrea), with a stopover in Addis Ababa (Ethiopia). One-way ticket price, including taxes: 27,500 mile and 27 Euros

 

Having checked in online and having only hand luggage, only at the Malpensa Gate, before boarding the plane I was asked to show my passport and visa for Eritrea.

 

So once you reach Terminal 2 of Bole Airport (Addis Ababa), you have to go through the hand baggage security check, before arriving at the gate area where I was asked for an Eritrean visa before embarking for Asmara.

 

Eritrea time zone: + 2h compared to Italy; + 1h when daylight saving time is in force in Italy.

 

Entry visa: required, to be requested at the Embassy of Eritrea in Rome or, as in my case, at the Consulate (Via Temperanza, 4-6 - 20127 Milan - Tel. +39.02.28999520

Fax: +39.02.28999550, e-mail: info@cogemi.com). The same is open from Monday to Thursday from 9.00 to 11.00.

 

Keep in mind that the kind and efficient employee of the Consulate always answers both the phone and email.

 

The procedure for obtaining a tourist visa for Eritrea is as follows:

 

It is necessary to go to the Consulate and hand in a passport photo, the original passport, 2 completed forms, available at the Consulate (in which you will have to put the name and address of the hotel where you intend to stay) and a photocopy of the card. 'Identity. Then after about half an hour you will be called by the assistant who will ask you some questions about the reason for your visit. Then he will return your original passport and you will have to leave him a telephone contact.

 

Subsequently, the Milan Consulate will request the Visa Authorization from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Asmara in Eritrea which will be given to you in about ten working days.

 

Once the aforementioned authorization has been obtained, the staff of the Milan Consulate will call you to notify you and you (or whoever is on your behalf) will have to go to the Consulate, with the urinal of the Passport and 50 Euros in cash and you will have to deliver everything to the assistant that in about half an hour will put the visa on your passport valid for 3 months from the date of issue that allows you to stay in the country for 1 month. You will also be given a 50 Euro payment receipt.

 

Keep in mind that the visa for Eritrea can only be applied for in the applicant's country of residence and therefore for me only in Italy.

 

Language: Tigrinya, Arabic, English. Also known Italian, especially in Amara.

 

Religion: Orthodox and Muslim Christian prevalence; consistent Catholic presence and Protestant minority.

 

Currency: Nakfa (ERN)

 

Once you arrive, at the Asmara International Airport, located 5 km south-west of the center of the capital, you have to go to the border staff desk, where, after asking me in which hotel I sleep, I was given the entry stamp in the country.

You then have to go through the baggage check. Mine being a small backpack was not checked.

Keep in mind that cell phones do not work in Eritrea and it is not even possible to buy phone cards like in other countries. So the only way to communicate with the world is to use the telephone booths or use the very slow Wifi connection that you find in the numerous Internet Points, located in Harnet Ave, at a cost of 15 Nakfa per hour.

Please note that Eritreans are very Friendly and Friendly to tourists and will try to go out of their way to help you.

Eritrea is a very safe country with very low delinquency rates.

Most of Eritrea is not accessible to tourists.

Keep in mind that in Asmara there is only Malaria at altitudes below 2,200 meters. of altitude and therefore not in Asmara which is located at over 2,300 meters. of share.

Keep in mind that in Asmara and even worse in other cities, the streets are almost always dark in the evening.

In Eritrea in the period of water crisis that I experienced at the time of my trip, water costs 25 Nakfa per liter.

Keep in mind that every time you arrive at a hotel you will need to provide your passport or a copy of it, in order to be registered.

Keep in mind that the Nakfa has been pegged to the US Dollar for decades, with the following exchange rate: 1 USD = 15 Nakfa and consequently the exchange rate with the Euro varies accordingly depending on how much the Euro is quoted against the Dollar.

Keep in mind that all Exchange Offices are governmental and therefore everywhere you will always exchange money at the same exchange rate.

 

The black market exists at the following exchange rate: 1 USD = 18 Nakfa, but it is highly risky and difficult to obtain and therefore it is highly recommended to change money in the authorized exchange offices.

I exchanged money first at the airport and then at the Himbol (Exchange Offices) located in Meskerem Square and Harnet Ave in Asmara, at the following exchange rate:

1 EURO = 16.6575 Nakfa

Keep in mind that tourists visiting Eritrea, outside Amara and its surroundings, are required to obtain a "Travel Permit for Foreigners", at the Ministry of Tourism - Information Center open from 8.00 to 17.00 from Monday to Friday and also on Saturday Morning, located in Harnet Ave, 100 mt. east of the Catholic Cathedral.

This "Travel Permit for Foreigners" must be presented if requested at the numerous checkpoints in Eritrea. In my case I was only checked when I traveled by private car and never when I traveled by Bus and Minibus.

Once I left the airport, I took a taxi at the price of 200 Nakfa, it took me in front of the Ministry of Tourism - Information Center open from 8.00 to 17.00 from Monday to Friday and also on Saturday Morning, located in Harnet Ave, 100 mt. east of the Catholic Cathedral.

Having arrived at the Ministry of Tourism - Information, at 12.30 on Saturday morning I could not ask for the "Travel Permit for Foreigners", but I asked for permission to visit the Tank Cemetery in Asmara, which was issued to me for free in just 5 minutes.

 

In Asmara, I slept at the Pensione Pisa, located on the 3rd floor of a building located in Harnet Ave, in front of the Cattolica Cathedral, in the center, Tel: 124491, Mob: 07246708, at the price of 150 Nakfa per night, for a double with shared bathroom and rooftop terrace on Harnet Street. The reception staff speaks English. Often there is no water while electricity is guaranteed almost all day.

 

Keep in mind that in Asmara you pay 10 Nakfa for a shared taxi ride.

I toured Asmara a bit on foot and a bit by bicycle, renting it, at the cost of 100 Nakfa, from Salvatore, an Eritrean who lived for several years in Italy and who therefore speaks excellent Italian and lives in the Gezzabanda district, in south of the center.

Keep in mind that it is forbidden to ride on Harnet Ave and near the Roundabout of the Sandals, so you have to get off there and push it on foot if you want to prevent the Police from deflating your tires or worse yet, impound your bicycle.

On the occasion of a wedding, Salvatore introduced me to the Minister of Education of Eritrea, who goes around without an escort.

In Asmara, a former Italian colony, declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco, I visited:

 

• The splendid Harnet Ave, which is the main artery as well as the heart of Asmara, full of bars and cafes;

• The Catholic Cathedral;

• Cinema Impero;

• Municipality building;

• Bahti Meskerem Square;

• Kirkos Church (excellent view of the city);

•          Railway station;

• Tank Cemetery (located 3 km southwest of the center: I took a taxi for 80 Nakfa);

• Italian Cemetery (located 2 km southwest of the center). I tipped the Keeper 30 Nakfa;

• Kidus Michael Orthodox Church (excellent view of the city);

• Cinema Rome;

• Greek Orthodox Church;

• Kidane Mihret Church;

• The Markets area;

• Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral;

• Medebar Market (closed on Sunday);

• God's Bless Church (excellent view of the city). I tipped the Keeper 10 Nakfa;

• Great Mosque;

• Multi Sport Bowling;

• Mai Khah Khak Fountain;

• Gezzabanda district;

• From Fortuna Gelato Italiano;

• Evangelical Lutheran Church;

• Villa Roma;

• African Pension;

• District of the Embassies;

• Seventh Day Adventist Church;

• Hamasien Square;

• Hamasien Hotel Palace;

• Odeon Cinema;

• Red Cross Cinema;

• Roundabout of the Sandals;

• Bar Zilli;

• National Museum (Open every day except Sunday from 9.00 am; no photography);

• Irga;

• Fiat Tagliero;

• Church of San Francesco;

•          Alfa Romeo;

• Asmara swimming pool;

• Hotel Selam;

• Capitol Cinema;

• Albergo Italia;

• Central Pharmacy;

• Commercial Bank of Eritrea;

• Central Post Office;

•          Opera House;

• City Park;

• As Pushkin Monument;

 

On Monday at 8.00 I went to the Ministry of Tourism - Information Center to obtain the “Travel Permit for Foreigners”.

 

To do this you have to communicate to the kind and young staff, where you want to go and on what day and what means you use. If you use a rental car you must provide the license plate, the driver's name and the driving license details. Beyond this you must provide a copy of your visa with the entry stamp, a copy and the original of the passport and pay 50 Nakfa for each area you want to visit, plus 1 Nakfa for completing the procedure. The timing of issuing the permit depends on how many and which locations you want to visit. In my case, I got it in just 1 hour. The permit contains all the places you intend to visit and the dates of the visit.

 

If you want to visit the archaeological sites of Qohaito and Metera you must obtain an additional permit by going to the 1st floor of the National Museum (Open every day except Sunday from 9.00 am), with a photocopy of the "Travel Permit for Foreigners" and pay 150 Nakfa. In just 5 minutes you will get it.

 

You can make photocopies of the stamped visa, passport and permits at one of the many copy shops in Harnet Ave and traverse.

 

It is always best to carry at least 4 copies of each permit you obtain.

 

 

Please note that there are several checkpoints throughout the country where you will need to show your permits. If you are in order with the documents you will have no problem and the Police will be very friendly with you.

 

At 9.30 on Monday morning I walked to the Asmara Bus station, located just north of the market area and I took a minibus which, for the price of 70 Nakfa, took me in about 2 hours and 30 minutes to Keren, through a very scenic winding road.

 

In Keren, the minibus left me in the center, from where I had to walk for about 2 km, on the main road heading north, first asphalted then dirt, passing through the Assehaba Mosque, before reaching the suggestive Monday market. camels and cows which ends at 14.00.

 

The context of Keren mt. 1,400, in the middle of the mountains is truly impressive.

 

From the Camel Market I walked for about 1.5 km on a dirt road heading south - east (follow the signs), before arriving at the suggestive Madonna di Dearit Sanctuary, located inside a historic Baobab.

 

From there I walked for about 1.5 km to return to the center where I visited;

 

• Italian Military Cemetery;

• Cereals Market;

• Clothing market;

• Fruit market;

• Rotonda Giro Fiori;

• Monday General Market;

• G De Ponti Palace firm;

• Church of S Antonio;

• Church of S Francesco;

• Murals in front of the Church of S Francesco;

• Monument on the Hill adjacent to the Murlaes, from which you can enjoy an amazing view of the city;

• Former railway station;

• Jesus Christ Church;

• Evangelical Lutheran Church

 

In Keren, I slept at the Hotel Sicilia, located in Agordat Road, 150 mt. south - west of the Rotonda Giro Fiori, in the center, Tel: 401059, at the price of 180 Nakfa per night, for a double with private bathroom, mosquito net. The reception staff speaks English. Electricity is guaranteed from 20.00 until dawn. There are also rooms for the price of 120 Nakfa, with shared bathroom but at the time of my visit they were not available.

 

Early in the morning at 6.00, near the Bus Station, located 700 meters away. southwest of the Rotonda Giro Fiori, I took a minibus for the price of 80 Nakfa to Asmara. Duration of the ride: 2 hours and a half scarce.

 

From the Asmara Bus station, located just north of the market area, I took a minibus which, for the price of 50 Nakfa, took me in less than 2 hours to Ghinda, through a very scenic road. They charged me the full fare for the Asmara - Massawa trip.

 

Ghinda is a beautiful little town surrounded by the Mountains. I walked around it, reaching a church located on a hill 400 meters away. southeast of the Bus Station. From there you can enjoy an excellent view over the whole city.

 

While it is true that from the Ghinda Bus Station in Asmara there are several minibuses and buses departing every day, it must be borne in mind that it is very difficult to find a seat on a bus or minibus bound for Massawa, especially in the afternoon, as vehicles coming to Asmara arrive in Ghinda full. After almost 2 hours of waiting I managed to find a place on a bus. The ride lasted almost 2 and a half hours. I don't know why but I didn't pay anything for this ride.

 

In Massawa the bus coming from Asmara ends its journey near the Bus Terminal, located on the mainland.

 

From there I took a minibus which frequently connects mainland with the islands of Taulud and Massawa all day for the price of 3 Nakfa.

 

I got off right in front of the Savoya Hotel.

 

On Massawa Island, I slept at the Savoya Hotel, located in the west of the center, at the price of 100 Nakfa per night, for a room with 3 beds with shared bathroom and fan. The reception staff do not speak English. Electricity is guaranteed from 20.00 until dawn. The hygienic conditions are not sufficient, there were mice in the room, the water in the bathroom is not guaranteed and the hotel also appears very degraded.

 

The next day I visited the beautiful Massawa Island, with its Arabic style alleys. It was hit by a severe economic crisis. Many businesses are closed, there are few people around and also many buildings need to be restored and many have collapsed.

 

From there I walked for less than 1km, before reaching the nearby Taulud Island where I visited:

 

•          Imperial Palace;

• Kidane Meheret Catholic Church;

• Evangelical Lutheran Church;

• Old railway station;

• Public Library;

• Porto dei Sambuchi;

• Monument for the struggle for liberation;

• St Mariam Cathedral;

• Grand Hotel Dahlak (40 USD per night);

 

Back on Massawa Island, right in front of the Savoya Hotel, I took a bus to the mainland of Massawa, paying for the 2 Nakfa fare.

 

I went down to just 300 meters. approximately from the Massawa Bus Terminal, where buses and minibuses leave for Asmara every day from sunrise to sunset.

 

I took a minibus for the price of 50 Nakfa, which took over 4 hours to reach Massawa.

 

In Asmara, I slept at the Pensione Pisa, located on the 3rd floor of a building located in Harnet Ave, in front of the Cattolica Cathedral, in the center, Tel: 124491, Mob: 07246708, at the price of 150 Nakfa per night, for a double with shared bathroom and rooftop terrace on Harnet Street. The reception staff speaks English. Often there is no water while electricity is guaranteed almost all day.

 

For the next 2 days I rented an off-road car with an English-speaking driver, from the Fontana Rental Car Company, located in Asmara near the As Pushkin Monument, telephones: 120052/112163/07114382, open from Monday to Saturday from 7.30 to 19.30 and on Sunday from 8.00 to 13.00 and from 18.00 to 19.30.

 

These are the costs per day:

 

• Car rental with driver: 2,000 Nakfa;

• Cost per km: 3 Nakta (the first 100 km per day are free);

• Cost of Fuel: depends on consumption;

•

For a total cost of 6,088 Nakfa (for 2 days of travel), which I shared with three other people: 2 spouses from Ancona and an Italo-Eritrean boy.

So I paid 1,522 Nakfa.

 

 

The first day I visited:

 

• The Church of S Michele in Segheneyti;

• The Valley of the Sycamores;

• Adi Keyh;

• Qohaito: here the guide Ibrahim, accompanied us at the cost of 200 Nakfa to be divided into 4 to the following sites: Grand Canyon, Mariam Wakiro Temple, Egyptian Tomb, Saphira Dam, Graffiti in the Adi Alauti Gorge (you have to walk for about 30 minutes on a path on the edge of the precipice), remains of a palace;

 

In Adi Keyh, I slept at the Central Hotel, located in the center, Tel: 650632, at the price of 400 Nakfa per night, for a double with shared bathroom and mosquito net. The reception staff speaks English. Hot water is almost always guaranteed, as is electricity. I shared the shopping with the Italo-Eritrean boy.

 

On the second day I visited:

 

• Senafe;

• A church on the southern slope of Mount Senafe after a 40 minute hike;

• The archaeological site of Metera (free admission);

• Dekemhare;

 

I must say that I got along very well with the driver Taddy who knows the Eritrean territory very well, being a former soldier.

 

Back in Asmara, I slept at Pensione Pisa, located on the 3rd floor of a building located in Harnet Ave, in front of the Catholic Cathedral, in the center, Tel: 124491, Mob: 07246708, at the price of 150 Nakfa per night, for a double with shared bathroom and rooftop terrace on Harnet Street. The reception staff speaks English. Often there is no water while electricity is guaranteed almost all day.

 

The next day, having canceled my return flight, I went to the Egyptair Office, located in Meskerem Square, open every day from 9.00, also on Saturdays, but only in the morning and I got my flight re-routed with the Ethiopian Airlines Company, but for the day before.

 

Then I went to the second bus station of Asmara, located 400 meters. scarce north - west of the main one and I took a bus to Mendefera for the price of 30 Nakfa. The trip lasted a scant 2 hours.

 

In Mendefera I went down to the center and visited:

 

• Catholic College and Capuchin Franciscan Convent;

• Shaikh Mohammed Sraj Mosque;

• Orthodox Church of S Giorgio;

 

In Mendefera an Agent in Borghese checked my “Travel Permit for Foreigners” on the street.

 

Then I went to the bus station located in 700 meters. north - east of the Orthodox Church of S Giorgio, where I took a government minibus to Asmara for the price of 17 Nakfa. The trip lasted a scant 1 and a half hours.

 

In Asmara I went down to Meskerem Square.

 

From here I walked on Harnet Ave, until I reached, just beyond the Catholic Cathedral, the collective taxi rank for the Korean Complex. The cost of the ride is 10 Nakfa. They leave when full (4 people). The same thing you can do with the Bus n. 1 for the price of 3 Nakfa.

 

From the Korean Complex it is necessary to walk for about 2 km in a southerly direction before reaching Asmara International Airport. I convinced the same taxi driver who had brought me there to take me to the airport for the price of 36 Nakfa.

 

Please note that Asmara International Airport opens only 3 hours before each flight. If you arrive earlier you have to stay outside or in the adjacent restaurant.

 

Keep in mind that it is not possible to convert Nakfa into Euros or Dollars and that it is forbidden to export more than 500 Nakfa outside Eritrea.

 

To spend the remaining coin, you can buy Souvenirs, in the shops located in the airport gate area.

 

At the airport (access to which is guaranteed only to those who have a plane ticket), after check in, you must go to the border desk, where you can easily get the exit stamp from the country, then there is the security check where they wanted to throw away my Stilo batteries, but in the end I convinced them not to.

 

Flight of the Egyptair Company from Asmara (Eritrea) to Malpensa, with a stopover in Cairo (Egypt). Return ticket price, taxes included: Euro 315.00. Having canceled my flight and re-protected it with that of Ethiopian Airlines, I stopped at Terminal 2 of Bole Airport (Addis Ababa), where you have to go through the hand luggage security check before arriving in the transit area.

 

My complete travel report with map, photographs and videos is available at this link:

https://vivendosalendo.blogspot.com/2020/02/viaggio-in-eritrea-attraverso-le.html