MAURITANIA
Punctual as never before from Terminal 1 of Milan Malpensa Airport at 5.25pm my plane no. AT0951 of the Royal Air Maroc Company in the direction of Terminal 2 of the Mohammed V Airport of Casablanca (Morocco), (multi-route ticket price including taxes from Malpensa to Nouakchott (Mauritania) and from Bamako (Mali) to Malpensa with a stopover in Casablanca: Euro 484.84).
Dinner is served on the aforementioned aircraft.
Punctual arrival at 7.40 pm, at Terminal 2 of Muhammad V Airport in Casablanca (Morocco).
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
At the Muhammad V Airport in Casablanca (Morocco), there is a security check also for those entering the transit area. However, keep in mind that the same is very fast.
Punctual as never before, my plane no. 2 leaves from Terminal 2 of Muhammad V Airport in Casablanca (Morocco) at 9.45 pm. AT0511 of the Royal Air Maroc Company in the direction of Terminal 2 of Nouakchott Airport (Mauritania), (multi-route ticket price including taxes from Malpensa to Nouakchott (Mauritania) and from Bamako (Mali) to Malpensa with a stopover in Casablanca: Euro 484 , 84).
Dinner is served on the aforementioned aircraft.
Punctual arrival at 11.40pm at Nouakchott International Airport (Mauritania).
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Mauritania, an entry visa is required, both for tourism and for work.
The tourist ticket (valid for 30 days of stay) can be obtained directly at Nouakchott Airport or even at the land borders against payment of the fee of Euro 55.00 or USD 60. The rest is given to you in Euros or Dollars and not in local currency (UM)
Once I got the tourist visa without any problems, I went to the Desk to get the entry stamp and there my fate is impacted by a boy in uniform who basically got me out of a thousand problems. He said that the invitation letter that I did not have and other non-existent things was necessary. All to get a tip of 20 USD which of course I gave for the quiet living. I asked for a discount but was not granted.
At Nouakchott International Airport (Mauritania), it is not possible to withdraw money at ATMs, but it is possible to change cash (Euros, Dollars), even after midnight, at an exchange rate, slightly disadvantageous compared to what you get in the Banks of the rest of Mauritania (1 Euro = 40 UM).
Keep in mind that very few vehicles circulate on Mauritania's roads, with the exception of large cities such as Nouakchott;
In Mauritania many people speak French but very few speak English.
Religions in Mauritania: Muslim.
In Mauritania the police are generally kind to foreigners and do not bother foreigners with requests for money.
Keep in mind that in every part of Mauritania there are numerous checkpoints and each time the Fiche is required from foreigners, which would be the form with the personal data. It is sufficient to give a photocopy of the Passport Page where the personal data are shown. It is therefore essential to bring at least twenty photocopies of the passport to Mauritania or more depending on the route you take.
From Nouakchott International Airport (Mauritania), located about 30 km north of the center of the capital, to reach it you need to take a taxi at the price of 600 UM. The journey takes about half an hour.
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One of the cheapest solutions for sleeping in the center of Nouakchott is to stay overnight at the Elwavaa Hotel, located just 1 km south of the Marchè Capitale. Cost for a room with double bed and ensuite bathroom: 600 UM. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania is a city made up of many dirt and dusty roads. It appears quite safe during the day, a little less at night when darkness reigns supreme. However, it is a city that can be explored on foot.
If from Nouakchott you want to reach Atar, the capital of the Adrar Region, the most touristic of Mauritania, you need to go to Garage Atar which is located 5 km east of the center on the road to Atar. To reach it, a shared taxi ride costs 50 UM.
From the Atar Garage in Nouakchott, from dawn to late afternoon there are Taxi Bousse to Atar. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 500 UM. You pay at the Company Desk. Duration of the trip: about 6 hours. Between Nouakchott and Atar, there are about 6 checkpoints, where the fiche (photocopy of passport) must be handed over to the Agent.
In Atar I rented a 4x4 car suitable for the Desert from Agence Biuauac Tours, including the French-speaking driver and fuel. Price for 2 days Euro 200. With this car I first reached Quadane, I slept in the open air in the Sahara Desert, then I crossed the dunes of the Desert reaching first the Oasis of Tanouchert, then Chinguetti, then Mhairith and finally the Source of Terjit, whose entrance costs 150 UM.
From various garages in Atar, from dawn to late afternoon there are Taxi Bousse to Nouakchott. Departure when all seats are occupied. If you decide to leave in the late afternoon, it is best to secure a place the day before as they are sometimes fully booked. Cost of the ride: 500 UM. You pay at the Company Desk. Duration of the trip: about 6 hours. Taxi Brousse stops next to the road to pray when it's time. Between Atar and Nouakchott, there are about 6 checkpoints, where the fiche (photocopy of passport) must be handed over to the Agent.
From Garage Atar in Nouakchott, late in the evening, I took a private taxi to Hotel Elwavaa, 6 km west, for the 200 UM fare.
If you want to reach Saint Louis in Senegal from Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania, you need to cross the Rosso River border. In theory you can also go through the much quieter frontier of Diamma (Keur Messène), but the connections are sporadic and therefore you end up opting for the much more dangerous Rosso.
If you want to reach Rosso from Nouakchott, you need to go to the Garage Rosso which is a good 5 km south of the center. To reach it, a shared taxi ride costs 20 UM.
From the Garage Rosso in Nouakchott, from dawn to late afternoon there are Taxi Bousse for Rosso. Departure when all seats are occupied. Cost of the ride: 250 UM. You pay at the Company Desk. Duration of the trip: about 3 and a half hours. Between Nouakchott and Rosso, there are some checkpoints, but they didn't ask me for any fiche (passport photocopy), perhaps because I was sitting in the back of a minibus and therefore they didn't notice me.
Keep in mind that the City of Rosso on both the Mauritanian and Senegal side is a terrible place full of evildoers, cheaters, dishonesters and pickpockets, where confusion and disorder reigns. Therefore, keep your eyes open. It is possible to change money on both sides of the border. The exchange rate is as follows: 1 Euro = 655 CFA.
In Rosso, the Brousse taxi from Nouakchott ends its journey about 1 km before the border post located on the edge of the Senegal River. This stretch can be done on foot (not recommended), with a shared taxi, or with a horse-drawn carriage (more expensive option).
At the chaotic border post of Rosso (open every day from 8.30 to 12.00 and from 15.00 to 18.00), have the Mauritanian exit stamp affixed to the Passport and then take a Pirogue to cross the Senegal River at the cost of 250 UM. There is also a public ferry that shuttles between Mauritania and Senegal and vice versa only 4 times a day.
SENEGAL
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Senegal for tourist reasons, up to 90 days of stay, an entry visa is not required.
Keep in mind that very few vehicles circulate on the roads of Senegal, with the exception of large cities such as Dakar;
In Senegal many people speak French but few speak English.
Religions: Muslim (94%), Christian (4%), animist (2%).
In Senegal the police are generally kind to foreigners and do not bother foreigners with requests for money.
As soon as you land in Rosso on the Senegal side, it will be a policeman who will pick up your passport and accompany you to the Desk to get the Senegal entry stamp. Keep in mind that there is nothing to pay for this service.
From the Senegale border post of Rosso to the Brousse taxi garage there is a scarce kilometer. This stretch can be done on foot (not recommended) or by motor taxi at the price of 500 CFA.
From the Rosso Garage they leave when Sept Place is full and broken-down for Dakar and Saint Louis. For the latter location the price is 2,500 CFA. It is paid to the attendant on board. The trip takes about 2 hours.
In Saint Louis, the race ends at the Gare Routiere, located 3.5km south of the Center.
A taxi between Gare Routiere and downtown Saint Louis costs CFA 1,000.
The Colonial City of Saint Louis, declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco, can be easily explored on foot.
In the center of Saint Louis I changed money at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 650 CFA.
From Gare Routiere in Saint Louis, Sept Place (faster but more expensive), Taxi Brousse (slower, but cheaper) and Buses (slower but cheaper) leave 24 hours a day to Dakar.
For a Taxi Brousse 3,500 CFA is spent. It is paid to the attendant on board. The journey takes about 5 hours (264 Km).
In Dakar, the Brousse taxi from Saint Louis finished its journey at Gare Routiere Colobane, located 10 km north of the center of Dakar. An evening taxi ride to Place de l’Indipendence costs CFA 6,000.
One of the cheapest solutions to sleep in the center of Dakar is to stay at the Hotel Chez Nizar, located in Ave Pompidou, 200 meters. west of Place de l’Indipendenza. Cost for a room with double bed and ensuite bathroom: 15,000 CFA. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
To reach Ile de Goree, from Dakar it is necessary to go, even on foot, to the Gare Marittime, located about 1 km northeast of Place de l’Indipendenza, from which several ferries depart every day for the aforementioned island. The first is at 7.30. Only return tickets are sold because there is no ticket office at Ile de Goree. Cost of the return ticket is 5,200 CFA. The journey takes 20 minutes.
At the Ile de Goree, declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco, you can easily get around on foot. In fact, there are no machines. It is a true haven of tranquility just a shot from the capital.
In the center of the capital you can walk safely when there is light. However, avoid doing it alone after dark.
If you want to reach Lac Rose from the center of Dakar, you must first go to Keur Massar, located about 20 km north - east of the center of the capital. Theoretically you can take a taxi to Gare Routiere Pompiers and from there take a Brousse taxi to Keur Massar, or take a faster but more expensive move which is to take a proven taxi to Keur Massar for the price of 6,000 CFA. The ride lasts a short half hour.
From the center of Keur Massar, take bus no. 311, which regularly connects this town to the Village Artisanal on Lac Rose, where the race ends. Tickets can be purchased on board and costs 200 CFA. The journey takes approximately 20 minutes.
Unfortunately, Lac Rose does not always offer that classic Pink color. For example, when I saw it, it wasn't Rosa at all. However, for those who take a bath, keep in mind that you stay afloat without swimming as happens in the Dead Sea, Jordan.
From Keur Massar if you want to reach Saly you need to take a local bus heading east, at a cost of 100 CFA and get off near the main road connecting the capital and the south coast of Senegal. Walk for 200 meters. about until you reach the edge of the aforementioned road where the vehicles coming from Dakar stop. Take one to Mbour. Ticket cost: 500 CFA. You pay on board. The trip takes a generous 2 hours.
In Mbour, ask the driver to drop you off at the crossroads for Saly where numerous Sept Places leave for Saly. Ticket cost: 100 CFA. You pay on board. The journey lasts 15 '.
Sept Place leaves you on Saly's Main Street. From there you have to walk for almost 1 km to reach the beach. Keep in mind that Saly is one of the most famous seaside resorts in Senegal, where French tourists are the masters.
If you want to get to Mbour's Gare Routiere, take a Spt Place from Saly's Main Street. Cost of the ticket: 200 CFA. You pay on board. The journey lasts 20 '.
From Gare Routiere in Mbour they leave when Sept Place for Joal is full. The fare is 750 CFA. You pay on board. The journey takes about 1 scant hour.
From Joal's Gare Routiere, to reach the Hotel Le Thiouraye, located 2 km from the Bus Station, partly on the Mama Nguedj River, I took a collective taxi at the price of 200 CFA.
One of the cheapest solutions for sleeping in the center of Joal is to stay overnight at the Hotel Le Thiouraye, located in Ave in part of the Mama Nguedj River. Cost for a room with double bed and ensuite bathroom: 15,000 CFA. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
From Joal, to reach Fadiout Island, it is necessary to take a collective taxi at the price of 100 CFA and then walk for 700 meters. about on the beautiful wooden bridge.
Fadiout, is a beautiful island made of shells where there are both churches and mosques. It represents an excellent example of integration between Christians and Muslims. It turns very well on foot.
From Joal's Gare Routiere, to reach the Karang Border Post between Senegal and Gambia it is necessary to take a Sept Place for Mbour, which leaves when full. The fare is 750 CFA. You pay on board. The journey takes about 1 scant hour. From Mbour's Gare Routiere, take a Sept Place to Karang, which leaves when full. The fare is 5,000 CFA. You pay on board. The trip takes about 3 and a half hours.
In Karang it is possible to exchange money on both sides of the border. The exchange rate is as follows: 1 Euro = 55 D. 1 USD = 45 D.
At the Senegalese border post it is easy to get the exit stamp on your passport.
GAMBIA
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Gambia for tourist reasons, up to 90 days of stay, an entry visa is not required.
Keep in mind that very few vehicles circulate on the Gambia's roads, with the exception of large cities such as Serekunda and Banjul;
In Gambia, the official language is English.
Religions: Muslim (90%), Christian (9%), animist (1%).
In Gambia, the Police are generally kind to foreigners and do not bother foreigners with requests for money.
At the Gambian Frontier Karang I ran into a bit of a problem with a bold young man who first searched my tiny backpack inch by inch, while all the other black people with huge suitcases walked by undisturbed, then he wanted me to seize the Medicines because he said that he needed a medical prescription even if in Italy it was not necessary and finally he wanted to make me pay for the visa which I did not need. Eventually, after about 1 hour, I got away with giving him a 100 D tip and getting the Gambia entry stamp on my passport.
At the Karang border post in Gambia, there is a road on the left that leads to the Bus Station where, when full, the Minibuses leave for Barra. The price is 30 D. It is paid to the attendant on board. The journey takes approximately 20 minutes.
From Barra there are ferries that depart every hour for the capital Banjul crossing the Gambia River. The journey takes about half an hour. The ticket can be purchased at the Desk and costs 25 D. Before going to the waiting room, I was thoroughly checked on my passport.
Banjul is the capital of the Gambia but not the largest city. It turns well on foot. The most beautiful attraction to visit is Arch 22. You can climb above it to admire an excellent view of the capital. At a cost of 100 D.
From Arch 22, to reach Bakau, it is necessary to take a collective taxi (six – six) to Jeswang for the price of 25 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes. From Jeswang, take a minibus (Gelli-gelli) to Bakau. It starts when full. The cost of the ride which lasts 15 minutes is 7 D. If you are headed to Bakau Lodge, tell the driver who will drop you off on the main road at 30 meters. from the Hotel.
One of the cheapest solutions for sleeping in the center of Bakau is to stay at the Hotel Bakau Lodge, with swimming pool, located in the historic area of Bakau just 200 meters from the beach. Cost for a room with double bed and private bathroom: 600 D. Wifi not present. Breakfast not included.
Bakau's most prominent attraction is the Kachikally Crocodile Pool, which is just 1 km from Bakau Lodge. To reach it you have to go into the meanders of the old city asking for directions from time to time from the locals.
The Kachikally Crocodile Pool is open from 9.00 until sunset. It allows you to see many crocodiles up close, but above all to touch one, a very quiet male used to dealing with tourists. The person in charge of maintaining the structure will guide you carefully in visiting this fantastic place. Admission is 100 D, but a tip is almost mandatory to feed the crocodiles. I gave it 200 D. There is also a very interesting annexed museum.
From the center of Bakau, to reach the beautiful and deserted beach of Cape Point, 2 km further north, it is necessary to take a tuc-tuc for the price of 25 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 5 minutes.
From the center of Bakau, to reach the splendid Fajara beach, 3 km further south - west, I took a private taxi for the price of 30 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 5 minutes.
From Fajara beach, to reach the splendid Kotu beach, 6 km further south - west, I took a private taxi for the price of 65 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 10 minutes.
From Kotu beach, to reach the splendid Kololi beach which is the busiest seaside resort in the whole of Gambia, 4 km further south - west, I took a private taxi for the price of 60 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 7 minutes.
Please note that there are no direct public transport links between Kololi and Kartong but it is necessary to first go to Serekunda with a minibus (Gelli-gelli) which takes you on the main road of Kololi. The fare is 8 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes.
Keep in mind that Serekunda is the largest city in the Gambia and therefore the most chaotic. There is incredible traffic. Pleasant visit to the Market.
From the Tippa Garage, located in Bakoteh Junction, which is the ninth main transport for Bush taxis (collective taxis) and the Gelli-gelli direct inland, minibuses (Gelli-gelli) leave when they are full, for the Brikama Gare Routiere. The fare is 15 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 45 minutes.
From the Gare Routiere in Brikama, located in the center, minibuses (Gelli-gelli) leave for Gunjur when full. The fare is 15 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes. If you are headed to Kartong, notify the driver who will drop you off at the crossroads where collective taxis (six – six) for Kartong pass.
From Gunjur, to reach the center of Kartong, it is necessary to take a collective taxi (six – six) for the price of 10 D. It is paid on board. The journey takes approximately 20 minutes. It starts when full.
From the center of Kartong, if you want to reach Allahein River in Kartong, located 6 km (full of checkpoints) further south, where the Gambia border post is located, you need to take one of the rare collective taxis for the price of 10 D or a private taxi for the price of 30 D. Keep in mind that from there it is possible to obtain the Gambia exit stamp, cross the river with a pirogue and thus arrive in the Casamance Region in Senegal, bearing in mind, however, that there is no it is no Senegalese border post and therefore it is not possible to obtain the entry stamp on the passport. I limited myself to taking some pictures of the Peschereggi, (arousing the suspicion of the Gambia Border Police, who stopped me and kindly searched my backpack), and then returned to Brikama.
From the Gare Routiere in Brikama, located in the center, minibuses (Gelli-gelli) leave when they are full, for the border post of Seleti for Casamance in Senegal. The fare is 50 D. You pay at the desk (where you can also change money), before boarding. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes.
At the border post of Seleti, you get off the minibus (Gelli-gelli) and you quickly get the Gambia exit stamp. Here is the last possible place to change money. Then you have to get back on the minibus to tackle another 2 km scarce. Go down again to check the passport of the Gambian authorities, and then get back on the minibus for another 500 meters. where there is the Senegalese border post. Here you can easily get the entry stamp on your passport. Walk for another 300 meters until you reach the Gare Routiere di Seleti (Senegal) on the right.
CASAMANCE (SENEGAL)
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Senegal for tourist reasons, up to 90 days of stay, an entry visa is not required.
Keep in mind that very few vehicles circulate on the roads of Senegal, with the exception of large cities such as Dakar;
In Senegal many people speak French but few speak English.
Religions: Muslim (94%), Christian (4%), animist (2%).
In Senegal the police are generally kind to foreigners and do not bother foreigners with requests for money.
Keep in mind that in the southern region of Casamance, between Gambia and Guinea Bissau, the effects of a thirty-year conflict of independence matrix are dragging on. Armed clashes occur occasionally between Senegalese security forces and rebels.
From the Gare Routiere in Seleti, when they are full, they leave Sept Place for the Gare de Rooutiere in Ziguinchor, the capital of the Casamance Region in Senegal. The fare is 2,500 CFA, plus a supplement for each piece of luggage in your possession. You pay at the desk before boarding. The journey takes approximately 2 hours. There are loads of checks by the Senegalese authorities on the road.
One of the cheapest solutions for sleeping in the center of Ziguinchor is to stay at the Hotel Baobab, located less than 1km from the center and less than 1.5 km from the Gare Routiere. Cost for a room with double bed and ensuite bathroom: 10,000 CFA. Wifi present. Breakfast not included.
Ziguinchor, the capital of the Casamance Region in Senegal, is good for walking, although there isn't much to see.
In the center of Ziguinchor, it is possible to exchange Euros in the shops at the following exchange rate: 1 Euro = 650 CFA. For Dollars, on the other hand, you have to go to the Bank hoping that they will accept them;
A short taxi ride downtown Ziguinchor to go to the Consulate of Guinea Bissau cost me 1,500 CFA.
A short motor taxi ride from the center of Ziguinchor to the Gare Routiere cost me 500 CFA.
From the Gare Routiere in Ziguinchor, when they are full, Sept Place and Taxi Brousse leave for the center of Cap Skiring, in the Casamance Region of Senegal. The fare in Taxi Brousse is 1,300 CFA. You pay on board. The journey takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
From the center of Cap Skiring following the signs for Maya Plage, it is possible to walk after more than 1 km, the Beautiful Fishing Village where you can admire dozens of fishing boats that leave or return from the fishing trip, or the fishermen who they repair the nets or the shops that sell fish.
From the fishing village of Cap Skiring, to reach Maya Plage, the most beautiful beach in Casamance and probably in the whole of Senegal, located 6 km north-west of the center of Cap Skiring, it is necessary to hire a private taxi at the price of 2,500 CFA , for the round trip including 1 hour waiting time at Maya Plage.
From the Gare Routiere in Ziguinchor, Taxi Brousse leaves regularly, when full, for Bissau, the capital of Guinea Bissau. The fare is 4,000 CFA. You pay at the desk before boarding. The trip takes about 3 hours.
At the border post of Sao Domingos, you have to get off to have your passport checked, then you have the Senegal exit stamp affixed, then you undergo another passport check. Then get back into the Brousse taxi to travel about 2 km and reach the Guinea Bissau border where you undergo a check before obtaining the entry stamp on your passport. You then get back on the minibus in the direction of Bissau. All procedures quite hasty and without hitches if you are in possession of documents in order such as the Guinea Bissau Visa.
GUINEA BISSAU
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Guinea Bissau an entry visa is required, both for tourism and for work.
The same, for tourist reasons, can easily be obtained at the Consulate of Guinea Bissau in Ziguinchor (Senegal), located in Quartier Santhiaba apres Boutique expresso. Au Radier take the Rue à Gauche. The visa office is open from 8.00 to 14.00 from Monday to Friday, but if you call the following numbers: 775126497 or 775560960 and pay a supplement for the trouble, you can get a visa even outside office hours. Please note that the Embassy staff speak French and Portuguese. The documents to be presented are: passport, passport photocopy, and 20,000 CFA in cash (other currencies are not accepted). Usually the visa is issued without problems in less than half an hour. The tourist visa occupies a page of the passport and is valid for 30 days for 2 entries.
Keep in mind that there are very few vehicles on the roads of Guinea Bissau, with the exception of large cities such as Bissau;
In Guinea Bissau the Official Language is Portuguese, although some people also speak French. English is not widely used.
Religions: Muslim (45%), Christian (5%), animist (50%).
In Guinea Bissau the Police are generally kind to foreigners and do not bother foreigners with requests for money.
Keep in mind that at the land border post of Sao Domingos, between Senegal and Guinea Bissau, there are no money changers as the currency of Senegal is the same as that of Guinea Bissau and that is the CFA.
From the Border Post of Sao Domingos, in Bissau, there are several checkpoints, where you are sometimes forced to get off.
Taxi Brousse coming from Ziguinchor, leave you on the western outskirts, about 4 km from the center of Bissau, which can be reached by taking a collective taxi at the price of 500 CFA, which can drop you off right in front of your hotel if you have stayed overnight at the Pensao Creole.
An hour's walk from the town is the beautiful Ofires Beach. The same can also be reached with a motorized vehicle at the price of 5,000 CFA, for the round trip, including one hour of rest. In this case I shared the expense with 2 other Italian tourists.
One of the cheapest solutions to sleep in the center of Bolama is to stay overnight at the Fishing Training Center, located less than 300 meters away. from the port. Cost for a room with shared bathroom: 12,500 CFA. Wifi not present. Breakfast included in the price.
To reach Bolama Island, keep in mind that almost every morning at 7.00 or 8.00, from the Port of Bolama, there are Pirogues or the Public Ferry Boat. The cost of the Pirogue Ticket is 2,500 CFA, while for the Ferry it is 3,500 CFA for residents and 8,000 CFA for foreigners. In theory, you can get a ticket the same morning by showing up at least half an hour before departure, but in order not to risk running out of tickets, it is better to buy it the day before, as I did. The trip lasts at least 3 hours and it is much safer to do it with the Ferry boat than with a pirogue that sinks from time to time.
The historic center of Bissau appears deserted and a bit disturbing on Sunday. Avoid wandering around the same after dark. However, during the day the capital of Guinea Bissau appears safe and can be explored on foot.
From Av. Francisco Mendes in Bissau I took a collective taxi which, at a price of 300 CFA, took me to Paragem, located 4 km west of the center, where the Minibuses (Transporte Misto) leave for Quinhamel. They leave when they are full. The fare is 500 CFA. You pay on board. The journey takes approximately 1 hour.
Quinhamel, offers nothing special.
Once back in Bissau, I asked the driver to leave me as close as possible to the Paragem where the buses for Gabù leave and then he left me on the main road between the airport and the center of Bissau, about 5 km west of it. , from which a dirt road branches off that I had to walk for almost 1 km, before reaching the aforementioned Paragem. From there, when they are full, the Sept Places leave regularly for Gabù. The fare is 3,100 CFA. You pay at the desk before boarding. The trip takes about 3 hours.
Gabù is a city that can be explored on foot even if it has very little to offer to tourists,
To change money you have to go to the Gare Routiere, near the Piazzola where the means of transport to the border with Guinea Conakry are parked. There is usually a Dude here who applies the following exchange rates: $ 1 = GF 7,000 (if you have $ 50 or $ 100 pieces), $ 1 = GF 4,000 (if you have $ 20 or $ 10 pieces), 1 Euro = 8.400 GF.
One of the cheapest solutions for sleeping in the center of Gabù is to stay at the Hotel Visiom, located about 500 meters away. from the Gare Routiere. Cost for a double room with private bathroom: 10,000 CFA. No wifi and air conditioning. Breakfast not included.
From Gabù in Guinea Bissau, if you want to reach Labè, the capital of the Fouta Djalon Region in Guinea Conakry, it takes a whole day.
From the Gare Routiere in Gabù, when full, the minibuses (Transporte Misto) leave for the border post of Buruntuma. The fare is 1,500 CFA. You pay at the desk before boarding. The trip takes about 2 hours. I showed up before 7.00, and I had to wait more than an hour for the bus to fill up and in fact I had to pay 200 CFA, to get it going faster.
At the Buruntuma border post, I got the Guinea Conakry exit stamp pretty quickly.
Then I took a motor taxi to tackle the 2 km of dirt road that separates the Guinea Bissau border with that of Guinea Conakry, paying 500 CFA.
GUINEA CONAKRY
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Guinea Conakry you need an entry visa, for tourism, to be requested at the Embassy of Guinea in Rome based in Via Adelaide Ristori, 9 / b-13, or by relying on a travel agency that delivers the practice for you. I relied on the Ufficiovisti.it agency, based in Via Luigi Pianciani n. 21 - 00185 Rome, managed by Mr. Nicola Basta, Telephone: 393/78864462, e-mail: info@ ufficiovisti.it, website: www. ufficiovisti.it, to which I have sent the following documents:
1. Passport (valid for no less than 6 months);
2. Guinea Conakry visa application form completed and signed in duplicate;
3. letter of appointment for the entry visa for Guinea Conakry completed and signed;
4. two recent passport-sized photos on a white background;
5. copy of the yellow fever vaccination;
6. Copy of the bank transfer in the amount of € 95.00 including VAT (€ 60 for consular fees + € 35 for the competence of the Ufficiovisti.it agency)
I must say that the aforementioned Agency did an excellent job and in just 2 days obtained an entry visa for 30 days. I arranged for the courier, relying on the online Courier "Spedire.com", at the price of Euro 6.98 each way, although it must be said that if desired, the Agency also provides the Courier but at a higher price than what I paid for it. The tourist visa takes up one page of the passport.
Keep in mind that there are very few vehicles on the roads of Guinea Conakry, with the exception of big cities like Conakry;
In Guinea Conakry the Official Language is French. English is not widely used.
Religions: Muslim (83%), Christian (10%), animist (7%).
Keep in mind that in Guinea Conakry Euros and CFAs are very popular for currency exchange. Someone also takes American Dollars but only with $ 50 and $ 100 bills.
Once you arrive at the Kandika border post in Guinea Conakry, your baggage is first thoroughly inspected and then you are asked how much money you take with you. Then you have to walk for 100 meters. about to reach the counter where your Visa is checked, you are registered in a book and finally you are stamped on your passport.
From border post of Kandika in Guinea Conakry, they leave when they are full broken down Sept Place for Sareboido. The wait can go up to 1 hour and even beyond and to speed up the times you have to pay a little more as it happened to me who paid 20,000 GF. It is paid to the attendant on board. The journey takes a good half hour on a dirt road in poor condition.
From Sareboido in Guinea Conakry, they leave when Sept Place is full for Koundara. The waiting time is usually not too high, at least in the morning. The fare is 10,000 GF. It is paid to the attendant on board. The journey takes about 1 hour on a dirt road in poor condition.
From Koundara in Guinea Conakry, when Sept Place is full, they leave for Labè, the capital of the Fouta Djalon Region. The waiting time can be very long, especially in the afternoon. For example, I had to wait almost 2 and a half hours before leaving. The fare is 90,000 GF. You pay to the desk clerk before boarding. The journey takes about 7 hours (a lot of breaks): the first 90 km on a beautiful, freshly paved road, then a few tens of km on a dirt road in poor condition, and then the last km become asphalted again.
Arrival in Labè after midnight. The hotels are full, but luckily the driver from Sept Place helps me find one and in the end I find it on the outskirts of the city: Hotel Safatou. Cost for a double room with private bathroom: 300,000 GF. Wifi and no air. Breakfast not included.
From the Safatou Hotel, I took a motor taxi to reach the center of Labè, over 4 km away, paying 5,000 GF.
The center of Labè can be explored on foot, even if the traffic is heavy and then if there isn't much to see.
From the center of Labè, I took a motor taxi to reach Gare Routiere, paying 2,500 GF.
From the Gare Routiere in Labè, they leave when Sept Place is full of broken-down places for Pita. The waiting time is usually not too high, at least in the morning. The fare is 14,000 GF. It is paid to the attendant on board. The journey takes less than 1 hour on a paved road in good condition.
In Pita I hired, at the price of 170,000 GF, a motor taxi that took me to visit 2 Waterfalls, a bit dry to tell the truth: Chutes du Kinkon and adjacent dam (10 km away from Pita by dirt road), where in theory you should get a permit from the Municipality in Pita to visit it or give a tip of 20,000 GF, to the Guardia who watches it and Chutes de Kambadaga (35 km away from Pita, half of which are dirt roads).
From the main street of Pita, in front of the Marche Central, they leave when they are full broken Sept Place for Dalaba. The waiting time is usually not too high, at least in the morning. The fare is 30,000 GF. It is paid to the attendant on board. The journey takes about 1 hour and a half on a paved road in good condition. The driver kindly took me to my hotel.
One of the cheapest solutions to sleep in Dalaba is to stay overnight at Auberge Seidy II, located about 3 km from the center. Cost for a double room with private bathroom: 100,000 GF. No wifi and air conditioning. Breakfast not included. THE
Through the owner of the Auberge Seidy in Dalaba, I hired a motor taxi, at a price of 150,000 GF, to go and visit the Chutes de Ditinn, almost 40 km away from Dalaba, on a dirt road in the middle of the mountains. Once you arrive at Ditinn Village, you will have to pay 50,000 GF to a Lord who proclaims himself the owner of the falls, who will accompany you on your visit. The uphill walk takes about 20 minutes.
In Dalaba, I changed money at a shop downtown. Having no more Euros and only having Dollars of less than $ 50, the only hope for me was to change the CFA at the following exchange rate: 25,000 CFA = 385,000 GF.
From the main street of Dalaba, Taxi Brousse and Sept Place pass direct to the capital Conakry. I got on a Taxi Brousse which turned the trip into an apocalypse: it made stops every 30 minutes on average, to pray, to eat, ect. In the end, I spent the night stopped in a Service Station sleeping in the Brousse taxi itself, while everyone else slept in the adjacent Mosque. In the end, instead of taking 5 hours of travel, I spent 16 hours arriving at my destination at 7.20 in the morning the next day. The fare is 60,000 GF. It is paid to the attendant on board. I also had to pay the sum of 5,000 GF AND THEN 10,000 GF to 2 checkpoints located before reaching the capital.
Among other things, the Taxi Brousse left me in the outskirts of Conakry, over 25 km from Kaloum, which is the real center of the capital. In the end I had to take a motor taxi for 20,000 GF (it stopped because it said it did not have the authorization to go further) and then another one for 10,000 GF, to reach its destination.
Kaloum, which is the real center of the Conakry capital, is very good for walking. Be careful to take photographs. They are not very welcome here and the police could create problems for you.
One of the cheapest solutions to sleep in Kaloum is to stay overnight at the Maison d'Accueil, located in Route du Niger, 200 meters away. scarce of the Marchè du Niger. Cost for a double room with private bathroom: 130,000 GF. No wifi and air conditioning. Breakfast not included.
To change money in Kaloum, turn to the numerous black money changers, which stop in Ave de la Republique. This is the exchange rate I got: 115,000 GF = 7,000 CFA.
At Port de Boulbinet in Kaloum, there are some strange characters who propose you to go on a pirogue excursion to 2 of the Iles de Los for the price of 300,000 GF. Instead, it immediately points to the right of the port where, when full, frequent pirogues leave for the island of Kassa. It is necessary to register before leaving at the appropriate Desk. The cost of the ride, which lasts about half an hour, is 10,000 GF. You pay once on board.
The Ile de Kassa is the largest and closest to Conakry in the Iles de Los. It gets around well with a motor taxi that I hired at the price of 35,000 GF and it allowed me to see Soro Beach, Manguè Village and Kassa Beach.
From L’Ile de Kassa this time I took the scheduled ferry to reach Kaloum, which however ends its journey in the far farther commercial port, located on the north-western outskirts of Kaloum. The cost of the ride, which lasts about half an hour, is 2,500 GF. You pay once on board.
To reach Conakry Airport, located about 15 km north-east of Kaloum, before dawn, I hired a motor taxi the day before for the price of 30,000 GF.
Punctual as never before from Conakry Airport at 6.45 am, my plane no. KP17 of the Asky Airlines Company in the direction of Modibo Keïta Airport in Bamako (Mali), (ticket price including taxes: $ 283.84).
A small snack is offered on the aforementioned aircraft.
MALI
Punctual arrival at 08.15, at Modibo Keïta International Airport in Bamako (Mali).
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
To enter Mali, an entry visa is required, for tourism, to be requested at the Mali Embassy in Rome based in via delle Cave Fiscali n. 19-21, or by relying on a travel agency that delivers the file for you. I relied on the Ufficiovisti.it agency, based in Via Luigi Pianciani n. 21 - 00185 Rome, managed by Mr. Nicola Basta, Telephone: 393/78864462, e-mail: info@ ufficiovisti.it, website: www. ufficiovisti.it, to which I have sent the following documents:
1. Passport (valid for no less than 6 months);
2. Mali entry visa application form completed and signed in duplicate;
3. letter of appointment for the entry visa for Mali completed and signed;
4. 1 recent passport-sized photo on a white background;
5. copy of the yellow fever vaccination;
6. Copy of the bank transfer in the amount of Euro 85.00 including VAT (Euro 50 for consular fees + Euro 35 for the competence of the Ufficiovisti.it agency)
I must say that the aforementioned agency did an excellent job and in just 1 day obtained an entry visa for 30 days. I arranged for the courier, relying on the online Courier "Spedire.com", at the price of Euro 6.98 each way, although it must be said that if desired, the Agency also provides the Courier but at a higher price than what I paid for it. The tourist visa takes up one page of the passport.
As for security in Mali, keep in mind that net of the terrorist attacks, which however also happen in Europe, Bamako and Segou are fairly safe cities, where crime reaches very low levels. Keep in mind that the rest of Mali north of Segou appears dangerous for tourists.
Keep in mind that very few vehicles circulate on the roads of Mali, with the exception of large cities such as Bamako;
In Mali the official language is French. English is not widely used.
Religions: Muslim (90%), Christian (4%), animist (6%).
Keep in mind that Euros and CFAs are highly valued for currency exchange in Mali. Someone also takes US Dollars.
Once the form with personal data has been filled in, the airport border can be crossed quite easily, thus obtaining the entry stamp on the passport.
At the Modibo Keïta Airport in Bamako (Mali), there is a currency exchange counter, but not always open. If it is closed ask someone around who will surely lead you to the person who changes money for black at the following exchange rate: 1 $ = 540 CFA.
From the Modibo Keïta Airport in Bamako (Mali), located 17 km southwest of the center of the capital, I took a taxi at a cost of 5,000 CFA, which in a few brought me to the southern outskirts of Bamako, where several Bus to Segou.
For the occasion, the taxi driver decided to take me to the Somatra Company Bus Station, the most unlucky of all. In fact, when buying the ticket for Segou (3,000 CFA), the clerk guaranteed me that the bus would leave shortly and instead I had to endure a nerve-wracking wait of 6 hours, that is from 9.30 a.m. until 15.30. The journey lasted a scant 5 hours including several stops to eat and one to pray.
In Segou, the buses coming from Bamako end their journey in one of the various garages located in the western part of the city.
From there, a collective taxi can take you to the hotel for 1,000 CFA.
In Segou I stayed at the Hotel l'Auberge, located in the center less than 200 meters away. from the docking area of the pirogues on the Niger River. Cost for a double room with private bathroom: 15,000 CFA. No wifi. Air conditioning included. Hearty breakfast included in the price.
Segou is a city that can be explored on foot.
In Segou I booked a one-day dugout tour on the Niger River, from a former guide (Abdel Kader, phone: 0022390873936, E_mail: music_rimbe-tacc@gmx.ch) that I met along the way, for the price of 120 USD, included the Guide, the rental of the boat with its staff, fuel and entrance fees to some Villages. Basically I visited the following Villages: Kalabougou, Kala Daka, Gueni Dage and Segou Koro. I reached the latter by motor taxi driven by my Guide.
From Segou, to return to Bamako, I took a Bus of the Nour TransportVoyageurs Company, paying 2,500 CFA for the ticket. Waiting times for departure, this time only a few minutes. Journey time: scarce 5 hours. This bus ends its ride in Bamako, in the Company's Garage on the south-eastern outskirts of the city about 10 km from the city center, which I reached by taxi at a cost of 2,500 CFA.
In Bamako I spent the night at the Mission Catholique, located in the center, in Rue Ousamane Bagayoko. Cost for a bed in dormitory with shared bathroom: 4,500 CFA. No wifi. Air conditioning included. Breakfast not included in the price. This property is run by nuns who also speak English.
The center of Bamako can be explored on foot.
From a side street of Ave Van Vollenheoven, minibuses leave every 20 minutes for Point G, located on a hill just north of the capital, which in theory should offer a wonderful view of Bamako, although I have not seen anything because there are too many buildings obscuring the view.
Upon returning from Point G in Bamako, the aforementioned minibus also passes in front of the National Museum and the driver can drop you there on request.
I paid 2,500 CFA for admission to the National Museum, while the one to the adjacent Botanical Gardens, open from 9.00 to 20.00, I paid 700 CFA.
To reach the Modibo Keïta Airport in Bamako (Mali), located 17 km southwest of the center of the capital, I took a taxi at a cost of 5,000 CFA.
Once the form with personal data has been completed, the airport border can be crossed quite easily, obtaining the exit stamp from Mali.
CASABLANCA (MOROCCO)
Punctual as never before from the Modibo Keïta Airport in Bamako (Mali) at 2.35 am, my plane no. AT0522 of the Royal Air Maroc Company in the direction of Terminal 2 of the Mohammed V Airport of Casablanca (Morocco), (multi-route ticket price including taxes from Malpensa to Nouakchott (Mauritania) and from Bamako (Mali) to Malpensa with a stopover in Casablanca: Euro 484.84).
Dinner is served on the aforementioned aircraft.
Punctual arrival at 6.50 am, at Terminal 2 of Muhammad V Airport in Casablanca (Morocco).
There is a 1 hour time zone compared to Italy.
Entry without a visa is allowed for tourist stays of a maximum duration of three months. For reasons of work, study, etc. it is necessary to obtain the relative visa, to be requested from a Moroccan diplomatic / consular office in Italy.
Once the form with personal data has been filled in, the airport border can be crossed quite easily, thus obtaining the entry stamp on the passport.
At the Muhammad V Airport in Casablanca (Morocco), there are several currency exchange counters, which change Euros, Dollars, etc.
The easiest way to get to the center, from Casablanca Muhammad V Airport (Morocco), is to take the train (second class Dh43). Trains are comfortable and reliable and depart every hour from 6.32 to 22.32, plus one at 24.00. By train you can also continue to Rabat (Dh80) or Kenitra (Dh 95) but, in this case, you need to change at the Casa Voyageurs or Ain Sebaa train station. Trains depart from the underground station of the building that houses Terminal 1 of the Airport, first reach the Casa Voyageurs Railway Station after 35 ', which is the furthest from the center of Casablanca but well served by the Casa Tramway tram and then after approx. 55 minutes from the Casa Port Railway Station, located 700 meters away. northeast of Place Des Nations Unies.
Casablanca is not one of the most beautiful cities in Morocco, but it is the country's economic capital. The things to visit are: the Hassan II Mosque, the 5th largest in the world, with its 210 meters high minaret, the highest in the world, La Medina, Place Des Nations Unies and Place Mohammed V.
From the Casa Port Railway Station, I took a taxi for the price of Dh 10, to reach the Hassan II Mosque, located 2.5 km north - west.
From the Hassan II Mosque, I took a taxi for the price of Dh 10, to reach Place Des Nations Unies, located, 2.5 km south-east.
The Medina and the center of Casablanca can be explored on foot.
From Place Des Nations Unies I took the Casa Tramway, until reaching the Casa Voyageurs Railway Station in just 15 minutes. I bought the ticket at the special machines, located near each tram stop, paying 8 Dh 8.
The easiest way to go to Casablanca Muhammad V Airport (Morocco), from the Casa Voyageurs Railway Station, is to take the train (second class Dh43). Trains are comfortable and reliable and depart every hour from 6.26 to 22.26, plus one at 4.40. Trains arrive at the underground station of the building that houses Terminal 1 of the Airport, after 35 minutes.
Once the form with personal data has been filled in, the airport border can be crossed quite easily, obtaining the exit stamp from Morocco.
Punctual as never before, my plane no. AT0950 of the Royal Air Maroc Company in the direction of Terminal 1 of Malpensa Airport (Va), (price of the multi-route ticket including taxes from Malpensa to Nouakchott (Mauritania) and from Bamako (Mali) to Malpensa with a stopover in Casablanca: Euro 484 , 84).
I arrive on time at 5.50 pm, at Terminal 1 of Malpensa Airport (Va), where my journey ends.
My complete travel report with map, photographs and videos is available at this link:
https://vivendosalendo.blogspot.com/2018/11/viaggio-in-mauritania-nouakchott.html
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