GLI ARGOMENTI

REPORT TRAVEL TO SOUTH AMERICA.

 BACK TO THE INTERNATIONAL SCENE.


More than 1 year after my last real trip, I am finally back on track. Many things have changed since then. The old days are now a distant memory but still I keep the desire to compare myself with other peoples. My destiny is called Brazil and the Tap Portugal company (540 Euro A / R) will help me to reach it.

God Bless us


ARRIVAL IN RIO DE JANEIRO


Miraculously released unscathed from the terrible Portuguese strike and the impetuous cold of the plane, here I am in Rio de Janeiro. Everything is beautiful here ... but I take three steps back.


RETURN TO RIO DE JANEIRO AIRPORT


It is useless to try, the impossible. There is nothing to do, despite all the problems, I don't know tomorrow, but today the beach life and the social life are not for me and this is why I am returning to the Antonio Carlo Jobin International Airport in Rio de Janeiro to look for any destination other than a beach. So I spend the night in the airport, the place I consider the safest in the world.


THE URUGUIAN PLUNA COMPANY IS MY DESTINY


Walking through the Antonio Carlo Jobin International Airport in Rio de Janeiro a fixed thought comes to mind: I would give .............. to have a Saint in front of my path too, who anticipates me by pointing out to me what is the right gate, ect., to avoid going a long way on foot unnecessarily. In the end, the Uruguayan Pluna Company is for me since today it is the cheapest of all (270 Dollars x 4 routes: 1- Rio de Janeiro - Montevideo, 2- Montevideo - Santiago de Chile, 3 - Santiago de Chile - Montevideo, 4 - Montevideo - Buenos Aires) and leads me to a place that is not a beach: this place is called Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay.


MONTEVIDEO, THE CAPITAL OF URUGUAY


Arrival in Montevideo with a small airliner of the Uruguayan Pluna Company, on a sunny day with 19 degrees centigrade. Here people don't speak much English and in truth I don't speak much English either, but let's say that the official language is Spanish and I can understand something. The Carrasco International Airport of Montevideo is beautiful and there is also a tourist office, located on the ground floor which distributes well-made tourist maps for free and provides useful information. I take myself to the center with an old bus line: number 700, which passes in front of the airport (the same also buses no. 700, 701, 704, 710, 711). You have to do the ticket on the bus and today 20/05/2012, it costs 33 Uruguayan Pesos the single way. The bus goes to the Urban Bus Station, located in Via 25 Agosto del 1825, near the Commercial Port, making many stops, all on request. It also passes adjacent to the Tres Cruces International Bus Terminal. Logically it does not reach Piazza Indipendenza, but passes a few hundred meters north-east of it. It is better to tell the driver to drop you off at the nearest stop. However, even if the distance is only 18 km, the bus takes about 40 'to 1 hour, depending on the traffic, to reach the center, where there is no dog around, as it is Sunday and therefore they are all in the stadium watching the game. I walk a little with difficulty through the center; there isn't much to see and what's more it doesn't seem like the safest city in the world to me. I move very buttoned up keeping the camera and the camera under my jacket and I take them out for a few seconds in the moment of need, to immortalize the historicity of the moment. People seem helpful. We see that there is a lot of poverty. Here not even the shadow of tourism, even if I meet the usual genie of the lamp on duty who runs around with the camera around his neck in plain sight, which translated into a word means "ROBBE". I soon get tired. There is too much to walk, not even the shadow of bicycles and so I go to the Urbana bus station, located in Via 25 Agosto del 1825, near the Commercial port and take bus n. 705 (33 Pesos one way), to return to the luxurious Carrasco International Airport, about 18 km from the center. The bus crosses the suburbs where degradation and poverty appear more evident.

CHILE, THE MOST SAFE STATE IN SOUTH AMERICA


The Pluna company still gives me a hand by taking me in 2 hours and 45 'to Santiago de Chile, capital of the safest state in South America. Outside the Arrivals Hall of the Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport, I take a bus to Santiago from the TurBus Company. The ticket is available to you by the driver at a price of 1700 Chilean Pesos one way. The same service is also practiced by the Centro Puerto company at the price of 1600 Chilean Pesos one way. The difference is that the two companies make different stops in Santiago. After half an hour, I arrive in the center at around 10pm. Being Sunday the exchange offices are closed because they close earlier. First by metro and then on foot (the streets appear poorly lit), I arrive at The Princesa Insolente Hostel, located practically in the center, where I take a bed in a dormitory for 5000 Chilean pesos. Here they also accept the prepaid credit card. The hostel is clean and comfortable and in addition to offering free Internet and a hearty buffet breakfast, it rents bikes and this is the most important thing. It is not for nothing that I chose it among the hundreds of hostels in Santiago de Chile. So tomorrow I will be cycling through the legendary streets of the capital.


BUT WHAT A GREAT RIDE IN SANTIAGO DEL CHILE BY BICYCLE ..


After a good night's rest and a great breakfast I go out with my bike directly from the excellent hostel. (rental cost: half day 4,000 Chilean Pesos, full day: 7,000 Chilean Pesos, with helmet). The bike doesn't brake much; it is a pretty old graziella but what matters is that it has 2 wheels. I throw myself on the capital's 2-lane bike path, which runs zic zac, with a continuous up and down in the middle of Santiago's main street, Av Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins. I get confused among the few Chileans who use the bicycle and soon I settle down to the rhythms of Santiago, which does not appear too chaotic, but which has very strong pollution due to its location near the high Andes that do not let the air pass. The cycle path then ends and I soon adapt to this event by going up and down the very wide sidewalks, which are a little rough. I am wearing a helmet, because the Charterer provided it to me. It is the light one that runners use and this makes me feel like an athlete in the golden days. The center is not bad. You see some “Chilean” tourists, I presume. If you move slightly away from the center, however, the deterioration increases and the faces change becoming and give the idea of a standard of living with less well-being. Here, too, English is not widely used and the official language is Spanish. Santiago is not very busy and with my bicycle I feel at ease and so I ride the wave of enthusiasm for a while. People are always very helpful with me, providing me with the requested information in Spanish, quite understandable.


MY FIRST TOP AFTER A LONG TIME IS CALLED CERRO SAN CRISTOBAL MT 869


I take my bike to the neighborhood called Barrio Bellavista, located north - east of Santiago. I tie up my bike and take the funicular (1,800 Chilean Pesos round trip), full of tourists almost all Chilean, which climbs steeply and in a few minutes takes me to the Bellavista terrace. From there, dragging myself with difficulty, I walk along several steps that lead me inside the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Consession where the Maternidad de Mariasulla Chapel appears first and then right on the top of CERRO SAN CRISTOBAL MT 869, the very white statue of the Virgen de la Immaculata Conception 14 mt high. From here you can see the whole city clouded by pollution and even remnants of snow-capped Andes. It's hot and after 4 days, I can finally show off my T - SHORT.


VALPARAISO IN CHILE IS MY DESTINY


After visiting Santiago de Chile, I go to the Pajaritos Terminal (there are 5 of them in the city) where I take a Bus of the Pullman Bus company to Valparaiso. I paid 3,500 Chilean Pesos for the one-way ticket, but keep in mind that several companies travel this route, charging rates of 2,500 Chilean Pesos depending on the time and day. For example, on holidays the prices are higher. On the bus I understood on seat no. 3 alongside a Chilean who has bronchitis. In 2 hours of travel, let's hope the flu didn't attack me. However, I'm the only foreigner on this packed but comfortable bus. I know the only Chilean who chews a little English, who once I arrive at the Rodoviario Terminal, located east of the city (the second largest in Chile), outside the center, gives me a great hand, to reach Plaza Sotomayor (the hub of Valparaiso). In fact, together with him I take a collective mini bus that stops only if you signal your willingness to get on by extending your arm. (the ticket is made by the driver and costs 300 Chilean Pesos). With that I reach the aforementioned square and from there in a short time the Millenium House Hostal, located in the historic center, under the Cerro Concepcion. In fact it is mandatory to face a staircase to reach it unfortunately. (cost including breakfast and free internet: 6,000 Chilean Pesos per day). I arrive at the hostel in the evening, I play and a lady opens up for me who seems to me to be a good fonna. I ask him in English if there is a bed for the night, but she doesn't answer me. Of course, she doesn't speak a word of English. It is the first time that it happens to me that the hostess does not speak English. And this excites me because it means that the place is quiet and in fact it is. It is just me, her, her beautiful dog and three Spanish girls who act as simultaneous translator for me, with the good voice, who despite her understanding nothing of what I say is very nice. She is one of those ladies you hope to meet at least once in your life. At this point I speak Italian with her and she understands me more. She makes my bed and she explains to me in Spanish where she is the kitchen, the bathroom, ect. Now that the three Spanish girls are out, they are alone in the whole hostel. Things that rarely happen in life. Let's say that it is one of the most beautiful hostels ever seen. It is really very nice and quiet, with soft music always present. Here too I found the bike rental (cost 1,000 Chilean Pesos every hour, including the helmet) and so my lucky moment continues. Tomorrow I don't know, but today I'm here, today I'm in Valparaiso, one of the most beautiful cities in Chile, full of stairs and hills (called Cerros). Tomorrow I will visit it from top to head and then I will leave for new emotions ...


VALPARAISO: AN IMPOSSIBLE UP AND DOWN FULL OF COLORFUL HOUSES


I leave the hostel with the rented bicycle, and I begin the visit of Valparaiso, a show of low and colored houses piled one above the other reached by avenues, very steep paths, elevators and funiculars. I venture on these terrible climbs, with a graziella bike with a very long relationship. Being able to use one knee, I soon planted myself and pushed the bike on foot to the Bellavista neighborhood. I almost died when I reach the top of Cerro Bellavista (where Pablo Neruda loved to spend his holidays) but from there with an incredible and panoramic half-coast alive with income taking advantage of the false flatlands of the place and thus reaching Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion, the most beautiful part of the city. It is wonderful to walk these alleys of colored houses, where people in Spanish express their immense availability and always have a smile for me.


LOOKING FOR RELAXATION IN VINA DEL MAR (CHILE)


Tried more than ever by a full day spent in the tiring Valparaiso, I take my bike to nearby Vina de Mar, a seaside resort, located 9 km east of Valparaiso, taking advantage of the pleasant promenade and at times the sidewalk adjacent to the state road. I spend relaxing hours there by the Pacific Ocean. The beautiful beaches and the stupendous Wulff Castle surround it.


MY NEXT GOAL IS MENDOZA IN ARGENTINA.


My next goal is to cross the Andes Mountains, in a point not far from Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, with a night bus, thus arriving in pretty Mendoza, Argentina. The journey takes about 8 hours, plus one time zone and therefore I absolutely have to take a bus that allows me not to arrive in Mendoza at an inconvenient time (from midnight to six in the morning), which does not allow me to go to a hostel or to go around Mendoza. Let's see what I can do.


I'M IN MENDOZA, I'M IM ARGENTINA


Back at the Rodoviario Terminal in Valparaiso, at 9.30 pm I take a bus to Mendoza of the Cata International Company (price 14,000 Chilean Pesos). The bus is comfortable and comfortable, even if a little cold. There is the bathroom and there is the gentleman in charge who brings you food and drink. Take the Statale n. 40 through the Andes to reach the Chilean - Argentina border which is crossed without too many precautions. Then you go down the hill at mt. 3,300 taking advantage of the Cristo Redentor Tunnel, built to avoid the more inaccessible Passo della Cumbre or Passo di Uspallata mt. 3850. Then you go down using the Argentina state road n. 7. There is an impossible darkness, but I see an ocean of rocks alongside the road. An incalculable amount of stars seems to fall on me, but then at the end at 8.10 I arrive in Mendoza and immediately dedicate myself to visiting the city. From the Terminal del Sol located about 1 km east of the center, I take the road just adjacent to it, located north of it. Here the buses to the center pass. The ticket costs 1.40 Argentine Pesos and is done on the bus with a machine that accepts only money and does not give change. I go down to the central Piazza Indipendenza and start my visit. Mendoza is very beautiful I would say, very close to the Andes. The expeditions to Aconcagua leave from here and it is here that the necessary permits are obtained for the ascent to the summit. The Argentine people are very friendly and helpful. The city is clean. I spend the whole day in the center and then take a bus back to Terminal del Sol, where there is also a tourist office. A small consideration comes naturally to me: now I have no doubts; after 5 days of traveling I realized that hardly anyone here speaks English even on the buses and at international stations. Rarely any young people. So by now I speak only in Italian which in any case understand me a little. As for my cell phone, it hasn't shown any signs of life since I entered Chile and hasn't recovered in Argentina either. I don't understand if he died due to the time zone and excessive transfers or if it doesn't work like in the United States because it's not Dual Band.


MY MEMORY GOES TO THAT INCREDIBLE TRIP THROUGH THE ANDES


From the Terminal del Sol in Mendoza I take a bus to Santiago de Chile at 2.30 pm of the O'Higgings Internacional company at the price of 110 Argentine Pesos. There are many companies that operate this route and depart almost every hour (there is also the night bus) but the cheapest price I found for today is the one mentioned above.

The mythical National Road n. 7 rises slowly and impetuously and almost seems to crash into the Andes range. It penetrates straight for kilometers, in the middle of the arid Mendoza Valley, adjacent to the river of the same name. On the right at an altitude of 1381 meters, you can see the beautiful Artificial Lake of Potrerillos. Then at mt. 1450, we meet the Village of Uspallata, the largest in the Valley. The bus still runs fast on the straight road in the middle of an ocean of mountains, overcoming and crossing large Cammion and skimming the precipices. You can see the snow-capped mountains, the highest in America, including Aconcagua. We then pass the Puente del Inca Village mt. 2720 and that of Las Cuevas mt. 3200 (here starts the dirt road that leads after 8 km to the Statue of Cristo Redentor 7 meters high). Then you go down the hill at mt. 3,300 taking advantage of the Cristo Redentor tunnel about 1 km long, built to avoid the more inaccessible Passo della Cumbre or Passo di Uspallata mt. 3850. Immediately after we arrive at the Argentina - Chilean border. We all go down; it is not cold, even if we are surrounded by a lot of snow that you can touch. Logically I'm the only European. Two Polizziotti, one Argentine and the other Chilean put the relevant stamps on the passport and issue a special stamped sheet of paper, to be delivered when leaving the country. Then we head to a room where they make us put our suitcases and backpacks on a shelf and a well-trained dog passes by to smell them and find something in a poor Argentine's backpack. The bad gendarme makes him open it and here's the surprise. No drugs, no alcohol, but 2 fresh apples. The gendarme with an increasingly nasty air beats him and prescribes a very high fine. Heroin. Yes, because here it works like this: it is forbidden to import fruit, vegetables, meat, etc. and therefore the dog is trained not to find them. Before arriving at the border, you must fill out a self-certification in which you declare that you have or do not have everything I have described above and that it is forbidden to import into Chile. Things from another world. Then after the dog check they make you pass the suitcase and / or backpack into the scanner that sees all fruit, vegetables, ect. They even put my fanny pack with the camera and camera in it through the scanner. Anyway I had no problems as I was informed before and therefore I proceeded to eat in a hurry before the border, the fruit and the ham sandwich that I had in my backpack. After unscathed the border a very long descent on the State Road n. 40 full of bends and precipices takes us back to Santiago at 20.00 in the evening, after 6 hours and 30 '(calculating an hour of time zone) of a very exciting journey.


MONTEVIDEO IN URUGUAY IS STILL IN MY CASE.


Arriving in Santiago late in the evening, I take a bus to the TurBus Company's Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport. The ticket is available to you by the driver at a price of 1700 Chilean Pesos one way. The same service is also practiced by the Centro Puerto company at the price of 1600 Chilean Pesos one way. The difference is that the two companies make different stops in Santiago. After half an hour, I arrive at the airport where I spend the night. The following morning at 7.00 am a Pluna Company flight awaits me to take me back to Montevideo in Uruguay.


I RIDE SPAVALDO BY BIKE IN THE NARROW STREETS OF COLOGNE DEL SACRAMENTO IN URUGAY, A UNESCO HERITAGE


I arrive again early in the morning at the Carrasco International Airport of Montevideo, where there is also a tourist office, located on the ground floor that distributes free tourist maps made very well and provides useful information. I take myself to the center with an old bus line: number 700, which passes in front of the airport (the same also buses no. 700, 701, 704, 710, 711). You have to do the ticket on the bus and today 24/05/2012, it costs 33 Uruguayan Pesos the single way. The bus goes to the Urban Bus Station, located in Via 25 Agosto del 1825, near the Commercial Port, making many stops, all on request. It also passes adjacent to the Tres Cruces International Bus Terminal (very elegant, with the Shopping Center incorporated), where I get off. Here I take a direct bus of the Turil Bus Company (233 Uruguayan Pesos) to Colonia del Sacramento, a Unesco World Heritage Site. There is another company that travels this route, the Pullman Bus, with prices similar to the Turil Bus (many buses depart during the day). After 2 hours and 40 'I reach my destination. At the bus station, there is a tourist office that provides free tourist information and maps. Not far away, there is the "Travel" Shop where I rent a mountain bike (130 Uruguayan Pesos, half day, 200 Uruguayan Pesos a full day). There are also other “Bike Rentals” scattered around the city. I enter the narrow paved streets of the historic center of Colonia del Sacramento, a Unesco World Heritage Site, where low and colorful houses, the same as they were 250 years ago, are the outline. I feel like I'm living in another reality. Fantastic. But then the hours pass quickly and at 5.30 pm darkness arrives and with it the yellow lights of the colored houses come on. The atmosphere is wonderful but the deserted and semi-dark streets recommend that you raise your anchors. From the tronde it must be considered that I'm not in Remedello.


BUENOSAIRES, EXPECT ME, I'M COMING


I therefore take myself to the elegant tourist port of Colonia del Sacramento, located about 300 meters from the Bus Terminal. From there I take a beautiful and huge fast ferry of the Buquebus Company (price 650 Uruguayan Pesos), which in about 1 hour takes me to Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina. Keep in mind that there are 2 other companies that operate this route (for example the Seacat) several times a day, with more or less similar rates depending on the time of departure. If you are not in a hurry and want to save more than 50% of the price, you can take a larger ship which takes around 3 hours instead of 1 hour. I arrive in Buenosaires at about 9.30 pm and I head with difficulty, towards the subway. It's a bit of a mess and I'm in a hurry as the metro closes early, at an undefined time between 10.30pm and 11.00pm. A couple of wrong directions make me lose almost half an hour. I risk a lot but in the end the last available meter is miraculously mine and I get off at Piazza Indipendenza and soon I am at the Pax Hostel (40 Argentine Pesos, including Breakfast and free Internet). Excellent hostel, located just a stone's throw from the metro stop, really comfortable, with a super abundant breakfast, clean, elegant.



IN BUENOSAIRES ON THE DAY OF THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE REVOLUTION


Early in the morning I go to rent a bike at a shop, located 3 blocks from the Pax Hostel. Yes, because in some South American countries the distance between one place and another is measured in blocks and not in meters or kilometers. A block is the distance between one Street and the next. The shop that rents bicycles is called the Bicicleta Naranja and has its offices in Via Pasaje Giuffra n. 308 in the San Telmo district and in Via Nicaragua 4825 in the Palermo district. (Prices: 20 Argentine pesos 1 hour, 60 Argentine pesos 4 hours and 100 Argentine pesos 24 hours). There is hardly anyone around on a bike but then I realize that it happened on a particular day: flags, demonstrations, stalls everywhere. Party people. Slogan. Shouts of Joy. With difficulty I enter the whole day in the middle of the anniversary celebration of the Argentine Revolution of May 25th. In the square of the same name there is the stage ready to host the singers. Great emotions then, even for me who was passing by by chance.


THE RECORD OF HOURS OF MY LIFE IN THE BUS IS FOR ME LIKE THE LIFE OF MICHELAS: MAIA, BEER AND ANDA 'A SPAS.


In the evening, by subway, I go to the Gigantic Terminal de Omnibus in Buenos Aires, close to the railway. There are dozens and dozens of branches of bus companies, arranged one behind the other for a few hundred meters. Incredibly, however, there is not even a Coin Exchange office. If you need to change or go back to the center or accept an inconvenient change at desk n. 139 of the El Rapido Argentino Company. While I'm there, I also buy a ticket to Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay, with departure at 20.00 (price 330 Argentine pesos). Keep in mind that other companies also serve this route a few times a day with more or less similar rates. For those who want to go to San Ignacio, Argentina to see the Jesuit missions, to get the best rate they do not have to buy the direct ticket which costs more than 400 Argentine Pesos but must buy a ticket to Posadas (many companies offer this route), place a little further south and then from there take a bus to S Ignacio, thus spending less than 300 Argentine Pesos. As for me, the bus of the company El Rapido Argentino to Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay is really comfortable: seats

reclining, ample leg room, bathroom. In the end I travel 19 hours on it, going down only once to the border, but I would have done another 19 because for me this journey is like the life of the michelas: maia, beer and go to spas. Maia: When I'm hungry I take something out of my backpack or they serve you dinner and breakfast. Beer: when I'm thirsty I take out something to drink from my backpack or even bring it to you or you can always take advantage of free tea and coffee from the machine located downstairs of the bus. I'm logically upstairs. Go to Spas: when I feel like taking 2 steps, I go downstairs to the bathroom or to the coffee machine. In the end, after crossing countryside, forests, remote villages, rivers by night and day, without having traveled 1 km of motorway, I arrive at the border. We all go down. Logically I'm the only European. The two customs officers from both countries (Paraguay and Argentina) stamp my passport. Already from here we can see that poverty increases significantly. Improvised salespeople try to foist anything on you and change your money at very disadvantageous rates. Eventually at 14.00 o'clock local time, 15.00 Buenos Aires time are in Asuncion.


MOTHER AND DAUGHTER GUIDE ME IN PROCESSION IN ASUNCION, THE CAPITAL OF PARAGUAY.

From the Terminal de Omnibus, located on the south-eastern outskirts of Asuncion, I take bus no. 38 for the center. Tickets can be purchased from the driver and costs 2,300 Guarani. Then you go through the turnstile and when you have to get off you do it through the back door. The bus stops on request and therefore you have to ask the driver if he tells you when to get off or know exactly when to do it. The Pullman passes through shacks where they sell everything and more. At each stop, fleets of vendors jump up and loudly advertise their wares and then get off quickly. This stretch of the city gives me the idea of a not very reassuring place. Poverty is printed on the faces of many. A girl on the bus kindly warns me not to take pictures and not to film as I risk being robbed. Then finally, after an interminable journey (about 40 minutes), I reach the edge of the center, a few tens of meters south of Piazza Indipendenza. Practically the center consists of a street where there are all the main attractions to see: the government building, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Senate, the Chamber. It is full of heavily armed police at every corner. I walk with caution tending hidden, all under my jacket despite the hot weather. I resist and take out the camera and the video camera, only when no one is looking at me, for the minimum wage time necessary to immortalize the historicity of the moment. I meet the usual awake tourist with the camera around his neck who walks casually in the deserted streets. I drive north to Independence Square, the main square. I glimpse the great river, the Rio Paraguay. I lean out from the wall and 3 meters below me an infinite slum appears. I take three steps back and go back to the opposite (south) side. I walk cautiously, slowly, holding myself close to the police who sometimes smile and greet me. Then I arrive on the square for the last photo at the Grande Rio Paraguay but here the surprise. I know very kind daughter and mother who guide me inside the procession that is about to begin. Here 95% of the people are Christian. They speak Spanish, I Italian, but we understand each other very well. I trust them and they trust me. Mom brings me my backpack, to facilitate my tiring journey and we go to the banks of the Rio Grande. Here from the ferry, volunteers get off carrying the statue of Christ the Savior on their shoulders. The atmosphere is surreal; the sky is dark, black and full of rain and in fact it begins to rain. People pray and touch the statue and clap and then there are the cars that play. The procession heads towards the Metropolitan Cathedral. Big emotions. I feel safe among the mother and daughter, who lead me to the bus stop no. 38 in Via Oliva and that is a few blocks south of where I got off a few hours earlier. They pay me part of the trip because I only have big shots and tell the driver to drop me off at the bus terminal. I thank them. They were really kind. They also gave me some important tips on how to behave on the bus, in the Omnibus station so as not to be robbed. I arrive at the Terminal in the evening. Great emotions cmq I breathed today in Asuncion.


ONE DAY I WILL BE ABLE TO TELL MY POSTERS THAT I HAVE BEEN IN THE VILLAGE OF SAN IGNACIO (ARGENTINA), ON THE SITE OF THE JESUITE MISSIONS, CONSIDERED BY UNESCO HERITAGE OF HUMANITY.


From the Terminal de Omnibus in Asuncion I take a night bus at 24.15 with reclining seats almost like beds of the Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion Company for the price of 120,000 Paraguans. Keep in mind that the same bus taken during the day costs 95,000 Paraguans. After 6 hours I reach the tangle of borders, which characterizes the area of the Iguazu Falls. I pass the Paraguayan one in Ciuda del Este, where the whole bus gets off for the stamp except 1 person (a Paraguayan woman), then the Brazilian one, where we get off in 2 for the stamps on the passport (me and the Paraguayan woman). It is easy to assume that on the bus they are all Brazilians except the two of us. After 6 hours I am at the Rodoviaria in Foz do Iguacù (Brazil). Here I take another bus that takes me to the Urban Bus Terminal (the ticket is taken from the driver and you can pay with 2 different currencies (Argentine Pesos or Brazilian Real). From here I take a bus that leaves every half hour for Puerto Iguazù (cost: 4 real or 8 Argentine pesos or 2 US dollars). The bus leaves you at the Brazilian border (the driver gives you a signed slip that allows you to take the next bus). passport from the Gendarme and then I take the next bus. I arrive at the Argentine border, where I get off again for the stamp on my passport but this time the driver waits for me to get back up and finally I am at the Omnibus Terminal in Puerto Iguazù. Hoaianski at the price of 73 Argentine pesos which takes me in 5 hours to the village of San Ignacio. Keep in mind that high companies travel this route several times in a day, with even more favorable prices. From the Terminal Omnibus with a taxi (14 Argentine pesos a / r, 2 km away) I reach the site of the Jesuit missions, considered a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Entrance to the site: 60 pesos for foreigners, 50 pesos for Latin Americans, 40 pesos for Argentines, and other rates for Jesuits, ect. It's raining like a beast but the site is still very interesting.

After a whole day I return them to Porto Iguazu 'with a bus of the company El Cometa (55 Argentine pesos: I negotiated the price). I arrive at the Puerto Iguazu bus station after 5 hours and walk to the Che Lagarto Hostel located in Av. Brasil in the center. (price 60 pesos in dormitories for 4 people with private bathroom, including a very abundant buffet breakfast and free Internet). Very large structure where to identify yourself you are obliged to wear a bracelet.


WHAT A SHOW THE WATERFALLS OF IGUAZU´; BUT HOW MUCH FATIGUE.


I get up early, have breakfast and walk to the Omnibus Terminal of Puerto Iguazù where I take a bus of the Tap El Practico company that takes me after 18 km to the Iguazu Falls, Argentine side (Price 20 pesos round trip. The ticket is possible 'do also on the bus). The price of admission to the Iguazu National Park to see the waterfalls is differentiated according to nationality: Foreigners: Argentine pesos 130, Brazilians, Uruguaiany, Paraguaiany and Venezuelans: 90 Pesos, Argentine residents: 50 Argentine pesos, Missionary residents and Jubilados Argentinos: 20 pesos, Missionary Jubilados: 15 Argentine Pesos.

A small train takes you to Cataratas Station and Garganta del Diablo Station. Then from there the pedestrian paths, stairs and footbridges in accordance with the disabled lead you near the falls. Compared to those of Niagara these are in the middle of nature and therefore you have to walk a lot to see them (at least more than 3 km). However, I spend all day there even if I can only see the essentials, due to the pain in my knee. Then I return to Puerto Iguazu´ with the bus described above.

BRAZILIAN BORDER DANGER


From Puerto Iguazu´ I take a bus (cost: 4 real or 8 Argentine pesos or 2 US dollars), to Foz do Iguacu´ (Brazil). At the first border (Argentina) the driver stops and everyone gets off to have their passport checked or stamped. But at the second (the Brazilian one), the driver doesn't stop forgetting that there is also a European on the bus. But with a moment of lucidity I realize and tell him to stop. I get out and have my passport stamped, saving my face and preventing them from accusing me of having entered illegally when I leave Brazil. Meanwhile, the bus leaves leaving me alone like a dog at the border but this is just a detail because, as usual, I take the next bus that takes me to the urban station of Foz do Iguacù. From there I take another bus (2.5 real - you pay the ticket at the desk, but they don't issue you the ticket; there is a turnstile that allows you to enter the boarding area) which soon leads me to the Rodoviaria Omnibus.


SAO PAOLO, ONE OF THE LARGEST METROPOLIS IN THE WORLD.


From the Rodoviaria Omnibus in Foz do Iguacù I take a bus to Sao Paolo from the Compagnia Pluna at 18.45 for the price of 161 real. Keep in mind that there are several departures a day and that another company also operates this route at more or less similar prices. After 16 hours, at 11 in the morning I arrive at the gigantic Rodoviaria Tiete in Sao Paolo in Brazil, where on the bus arrivals floor there is the tourist office that provides you with the map and information about the city for free. From there by metro (3 real) and then on foot I reach the Global Hostel (price 34 real including free internet). Great Hostello, clean, even if located over 1 km from the nearest metro station. The hostel rents me a bike (15 real for the whole day). So I leave for a visit to the city. The traffic is incredible. Nobody speaks English but only Portuguese which is much more difficult to understand than Spanish. I throw myself into traffic. There is no one around on a bike. It is very hot but I proceed with the duster to keep the camera and camera hidden. Not even the shadow of tourists. Disowned everywhere, lying on the ground especially in Piazza Sé, the hub of Sao Paolo. Armed police everywhere. A lot of poverty in the midst of the many skyscrapers of the city. Not even a bench in the whole city. I tiptoe on my cushioned mountain bike, photographing and filming only the essentials. I spend a whole day in Sao Paolo, then the night comes early and at 6 pm I return to the hostel, where the Portuguese girls offer me an arghile´. I thank but refuse. I sleep at the Global Hostel.


GREAT EMOTIONS TRAVELING THE TILED STREETS OF PARATY (BRAZIL) BY MOUNTAINBIKE.


From Rodoviaria Tiete in Sao Paolo at 8.00 am I take a bus to Paraty (Brazil) of the Reunidas Company (_portello n. 409), the only one that covers this route (price: 46 real). Keep in mind that there are few departures per day. Arrival in the early afternoon at the Paraty Rodoviaria after about 6 hours of travel. I immediately rent a mountain bike from the Paraty Tour (7 Reals per hour, 35 Reals per day). Once again, as on other occasions, the guy explains to me all the off-road routes that are around Paraty. So I explain to him that I use the bike to do what others do on foot. He tells me that it is uncomfortable to ride a bike on the slippery pavement and that it is also dangerous and it would be better to walk downtown. In short, a lot of stories because in the end people find it hard to understand that I use the bike to move and not to have fun off-road like the rest of the world. Anyway in the end I get it and leave to discover the Colonial city of Paraty. I spend almost a whole day on the paved paths, in the midst of the low and colorful houses, the many shops that see everything and more and the port with boats of all colors. There aren't many people on the streets and you are immersed in a surreal atmosphere. Then the night comes quickly because I have never said it before but in the South America I frequented it gets dark at 5.30 pm this season. Another thing that I have always omitted to say is that I make a lot of spelling errors because I write with computers that are impossible to use where the keys are missing or are discolored or you have to type several times on the same key and then I don't have time to correct the 'spelling because, behind me I have a line of people waiting to use the computer. However, returning to Paraty the night falls and the street lamps that emit yellow light make the atmosphere even more surreal. The people are very hospitable and the severe Sao Paolo is already a distant memory. Here, thanks to tourism and fishing, the living conditions appear much better.

WORRING BUT AT THE SAME CHARMING HOSTEL IN PARATY.


Once in Paraty I head to Don Quixote Hostel (25 Real), the closest hostel to the bus station, in Rua Lapa 7, attached to the bike rental shop (Paraty tour) and at the beginning of the historic center. . So perfect for me. I find it immediately, I play but no one answers. And this is already strange since the reception is 24 hours a day. But I don't worry too much and I ask the shop next door which tells me that the manager will arrive soon. I wait sitting on the stairs; After a few minutes a strange character arrives who speaks only Portuguese but I don't understand him; In the end he opens me anyway and makes me go up and I understand that he is not the owner but a simple guest and that the owner arrives tomorrow. Anyway he gives me the key to the room where I am alone and there are 5 empty beds without sheets (only with blankets). Three beds are even bunk beds and this means that to reach the third you must have attended at least the basic mountaineering course and have obtained the relative certificate. The view over the historic center is however exceptional. I leave the backpack in my room and lock the room with the key and go out to visit the city. When I come back in the late evening it is all dark and there are candles lit in every room except mine where there is an unlit candle that I light using the others; Of electricity not even talking about it, of water least of all; I am alone in the whole hostel and with those candles lit the atmosphere appears ghostly but fascinating and in the end I go to sleep but because of the open window and the lit candle the mosquitoes are the masters resisting even the Autan; They massacre me for many hours but in the end the dawn comes to my salvation, obligatorily entering another day.


BELO HORIZZONTE: THE THIRD LARGEST CITY IN BRAZIL


From the Paraty Rodoviaria I take a bus to Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) of the Costa Verde Company, the only one that travels this route (price: 55 real). Note that there are several departures per day. Arrival after 5 hours at the Rodoviaria Nova Rio in Rio de Janeiro. Keep in mind that it is gigantic but that there is no money exchange office inside it. You have to go downtown or Copacabana.

From here I take a bus to Belo Horizzonte (Brazil) of the Cometa Company, (price: 72 real: they accept prepaid credit cards). Keep in mind that there are several companies that operate this route (including the company Util) with many departures every day. After 6 hours I arrive at the Rodoviaria of Belo Horizzonte, the third largest city in Brazil, built on the adjacent hills. There isn't much to see, not even talking about bikes and so I change the air quickly.


ACCORDING TO ME, FINDING A RENTAL BIKE IN OURO PRETO IS LIKE RECOVERING A COCCAGLIO BOAT.


From the Rodoviaria di Belo Horizzonte I take a bus to Ouro Preto (Brazil) of the Passaro Verde Company, the only one that travels this route (price: 24.23 real). Keep in mind that there are many departures per day. Arrival after 4 hours at the tiny Rodoviaria di Ouro Preto, located 1 km north - east of the historic center. and I take a taxi to its historic center, listed by Unesco as a World Heritage Site, (2 real, same price as the bus). This is also a beautiful colonial city, very well maintained. I go straight to the money exchange office in Piazza Tiradentes (honest exchange) and then to the tourist office (city maps for a fee) to ask for a bike and they direct me to an extreme sports agency which, after asking me how always because I want the bicycle in a historic center full of climbs and paved and slippery streets, they kindly inquire to find one: they make a lot of phone calls, but nothing to do, the bike cannot even be paid for gold. Then I go back to the main square where I stay for several minutes and I notice that there are 2 people with bikes in all of Ouro Preto. So at the first opportunity I stop them and ask them if they rent it to me. They do not speak English and probably do not understand anything about my request but in the end what I understand is that they don't let go of the bike from under their asses even to shoot them. Distraught, I visit the city by traveling by bus (2 real each way; the ticket is made by the young lady on the bus and then you have to go through the terrible turnstile). It is a shame because in this way I can only visit a part of this beautiful colonial city where the paved and narrow alleys go down and up continuously offering an incredible spectacle.


MARIANA, WONDERFUL COLONIAL TOWN


After the storm in Ouro Preto I move to the nearby colonial town of Mariana located just 14 km away, with a bus (3.5 real; the ticket is made by the young lady on the bus and then you have to go through the terrible turnstile). The bus passes every half hour in front of the Terminal de Integracao, 50 meters from Tiradentes Square. After half an hour, I arrive at the Manoel da Costa Atayde tourist terminal in Mariana, a charming town with its steep and paved streets. After seeing the Town Hall Chamber and many beautiful churches, I reach the top where incredibly, in a flash the sunset arrives, which makes it even more

the landscape is enchanting.


I HAVE PASSED THERE BY CASE IN SAN JOAU DEL REI.


In the evening I return to Ouro Preto, where I spend the night at the beautiful O Sorriso do Lagarto Hostel (25 Real, internet for a fee), located about 700 meters away. from Tiradentes Square.

I get up very early in the morning. From the Rodoviaria I take a bus to S Joau del Rei (Brazil) of the Util Company, the only one that travels this route (price: 48.17 real). Note that there are several departures per day. Arrival after 4 hours at the Rodoviaria di S Joau del Rei. I quickly visit this town that does not have much to offer. Of course there is not even a shadow of tourists and while I'm here I take the opportunity to say that from the beginning of the trip I have not met even an Italian and very few European foreigners.


IN TIRADENTES, A BEAUTIFUL COLONIAL TOWN, IT'S GREAT PARTY.


From the Rodoviaria di S Joau del Rei I take a bus to Tiradentes (Brazil) of the President Company, (price: 3.50 real). Keep in mind that there is also the Vale de Ouro company that travels this route with similar prices but with different times. However, there are many departures a day, a little less on Sundays. I arrive after 45 minutes at the tiny Rodoviaria di Tiradentes, located in the center and I walk to the historic center. The cobbled streets and the square in the middle of the low and colored houses are full of Brazilians celebrating the Holy Trinity. In Largo Das Forras, there is the tourist office also open on Saturdays which offers free maps and essential information. I rent a mountain bike from Uai Trip (price 35 real per day) and I also join the party. The road that leads to the Sanctuary of the Holy Trinity is full of stalls selling all the good things of God. Above the mass is celebrated which is also spread outside with the help of speakers as the inside is full; I live this beautiful, very hot sunny day running around with the bike in the slippery streets. There is also a vintage coal train that attracts the attention of many. But eventually the night comes impetuous.


THE BIKE RENTER FROM TIRADENTES IS A BU OM AND THROWS ME TOWARDS RIO DE JANEIRO.


In Tiradentes, the bike renter (Uai Trip) who has the face of Bu Om, offers to get me the ticket to Rio de Janeiro, but in the end the direct night bus is complete also because it is Saturday evening. There is therefore a need for a connection and so he offers to accompany me, together with his wife and one year old daughter, to the bus station in San Joau del Rei where he buys me the 2 tickets necessary to reach Rio de Janeiro. Speak excellent English. He was really kind and turned out to be a Bu Om and will remain etched in my memory.

From the Rodoviaria di S Joau del Rei I therefore take the 7.00 pm bus to Barbacena (Brazil) of the Transur Company, (price: 14.20 real). There are several departures per day. I arrive after 1 hour and 30 minutes at the Rodoviaria di Barbacena, where at 24.20 I take a bus of the Util Company (price 45.10 Real) which in less than 5 hours takes me to Rio de Janeiro.


NOW THE PHOTOGRAPH OF THE RENDENTOR CHRIST BY RIO DE JANEIRO, WHICH I HAD ON THE DESKOP OF THE COMPUTER, HAS BECOME REALITY.


I arrive at the Nova Rio bus station in Rio de Janeiro at 4.50am on a Sunday morning and logically I don't dare leave there until 7.00am. Inside the station the security is optimal. Despite the hour it is full of people and police who wake you up only if you bend your head resting it on the other chair as I did to keep the backpack under your head so that they wouldn't steal it while I closed my eyes. At 7 am I take a bus to IPANEMA, the most chic area of Rio de Janeiro, where I chose to spend my last night in Brazil. (3.10 real, ticket on the bus issued by the young lady and then passage of the terrible turnstile) I arrive at the hostel at Piratas de Ipanema but the owner tells me that I have to stay at least two nights to get a bed. But I insist and I manage to snatch a hammock in extremis, in a semi-covered place (15 real, with free internet). Then I leave for Christ the Redeemer. I take, in Via Rainha Elizabete da Belgica, at box n. 2, bus no. 484 for Cosme Velho (2.75 real, ticket on the bus issued by the lady and then passage of the terrible turnstile). Once in Cosmo Velho, I take the mini bus (25 real) which in about 40 minutes, including the panoramic break, takes me to the ticket office for entry to the statue of Christ the Redeemer. Here I have a crazy queue to get the entrance ticket to the Statue (26.53 real) and then still a lot of queue to take another minibus. All this waste of time can be avoided by taking advantage of the train that leaves from Cosmo Velho station and reaches almost to the top at the price of 44 real, but also includes the cost of admission to the Statue and therefore, in addition to costing less, this solution allows to avoid a lot of unnecessary queues. The only flaw is that there are few trains a day while there are always minibuses. Then the lift and then the escalators lead me to the Cima del Cordovaro mt. 704 where the immense white statue of Christ the Redeemer is located. It is full of tourists, the sun is burning and the view is incredible: an unimaginable spectacle before my eyes. Under my feet the incredible Rio de Janeiro and above my head the immense statue where inside there is a beautiful chapel where a prayer vigil is taking place. This excursion takes me a whole day and at the end for safety reasons I hurry back to Copacabana before it gets dark.


WHO WOULD NEVER SAID THAT ONE DAY I WOULD BE ASSISTED TO

SUNSET IN COPACABANA, IN RIO DE JANEIRO.


I arrive in Copacabana at 5.00 pm, just in time to watch the sunset. The

along the sea is full of people on bikes, rollerblades, ect. The beach is still saturated with people who spend the last remnants of light. The sun then quickly falls, leaving room for the full moon, which lights up the Copacabana night. Big emotions.


MY NIGHT IN THE HAMACA AT THE PIRATAS DE IPANEMA GUESTHOUSE, IN RIO DE JANEIRO.


Return in the evening to the hostel at Piratas de Ipanema Guesthouse, located in the most chic area of Rio de Janeiro, in Ipanema, about 250 meters away. from the beach of the same name and about 250 meters. from Copacabana Beach. A very special and very nice hostel where surfboards are used as chairs. The attraction, however, is represented by a giant and beautiful black dog, as good as bread that roams freely among the guests like a real Star. Due to the excellent location and the great affordability of the hostel, it is full but the owner kindly offers me a place to sleep in the hammock (15 real). I therefore spend my last night in Brazil on the same, resting very well and winding myself up like a spring ready for the last day to spend in South America.

I SPEND MY LAST DAY OF THE TRIP IN RIO DE JANEIRO.


I get up quite early and with the Metro from Ipanema / Gal Osorio Station (3.10 real a single ride but there are more rechargeable cards that allow you to get better prices if the metro is used with a certain frequency perhaps together with the tram and the bus), I take myself to the center where the tall skyscrapers dominate and where I don't even notice a tourist. There is not a lot to see and then not having found a bicycle I soon get tired and then I return to Ipanema where I go to the northern end of the homonymous beach where the Copacabana Fort stands. The sun beats down hard, the temperature far exceeds 30 °. I spend the last few remnants there, but then my time runs out. I go back to the Hostel at Piratas de Ipanema Guesthouse, greet the owner and go to Rua Francisco Otaviano, in front of the Igreja da Ressurreicao, where there is a blue and black sign, without any shelter representing the bus stop for the Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport, located north of the city of Rio de Janeiro. The blue bus of the Premiun Autoonbus Company, which shows on the windshield the itinerary "Ipanema, International Airport" and the "12 real" price, passes every 30 minutes, in Ipanema, along Av. Viera Souto (the road that runs along the beach) and Rua Francisco Otaviano; in Copacabana in Av. Atlantica (the road that runs along the beach), in Botafogo, in Flamengo, in Catete, in Gloria, at the National Airport, adjacent to the center and then continues towards the International Airport. Please note that on weekends this route may vary slightly by moving the stops from the road adjacent to the beach to one of the internal roads. Logically, the bus travels the same route in the opposite direction, that is, from the airport to Ibanema. In order to get on it, you have to call the stop with your arm outstretched, otherwise the driver won't stop. The entire journey, depending on traffic, lasts from 1 to 2 hours, because, even if the kilometers are few, the stops are very numerous.



IT'S ALL OVER: BACK HOME.


Arrival at Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport, at 19.00 on Monday 04/06/2012, just in time to take the packed plane at 22.35 of the Tap Portugal company (540 Euro A / R Milan Malpensa - Rio de Janeiro) , which starts on time more than ever. As on the way, the bad frost inside it accompanies me for 10 hours to Lisbon, where I arrive just before midday on 05/06/2012. From there another plane of the same company at 2.15 pm, in just under 3 hours brings me back to Italy, to Malpensa Airport, where a Malpensa Express bus (7.5 Euro one way ticket) takes me in about 45 minutes. resumed at Milan Central Station. There I take a regional train to Chiari and then at 9.30 pm sharp here is the return home. I ran for about 18 days in the length and breadth of part of South America, passing through different peoples, borders, cultures, time zones, currencies, Governments, emotions, ect. Definitely the most beautiful journey of my life that leaves me a lot.


My complete travel report with map, photographs and videos is available at this link:

http://vivendosalendo.blogspot.com/2012/06/finalmente-le-foto-di-rio-de-janerio.html







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